= ''S/V Nevermore'' Ship's System Descriptions =

  Editor's note:

:* Traveller (where does this go? Running rigging?)

== BOAT SYSTEMS ==

=== standing and running rigging (including mast-partners) ===

==== * standing rigging  (including mast-partners) ====

==== * running rigging ==== 

                      (do we want this header, since it's just a

                      it (which we didn't do, you'll notice)

                    (Maybe if I could think of more things to

                      list under standing rigging, I'd like to

                      have separate "standing" and "running" headers?)

* MAINSAIL

** Dutchman furling system

** traveller

*** STATUS: the traveller didn't work well when we got the boat 2007.  We originally planned merely to re-rig its lines and the like.  Then we realized it's pretty bad in general: car doesn't translate easily; the car abrades the dodger; lines in the traveller get abraded by parts of it; lines don't run to cockpit freely, being fouled by dodger access cringles; etc.

**** (See [[Fix_traveller]] for an outline of the 2007-08 task to replace the traveller.)

**** (See [[2007_Traveler_Pictures]] for some snaps of the original (2007) traveller.)

** boomvang               

** preventer (for boom)   (haven't seen one aboard?)

** furler (which is more a Standing Rigging thing, isn't it?)

=== Keel-Centerboard ===

Note that we were told that there is a "box" inside the slot that can be unbolted so we can lower the centerboard out. We didn't see such a thing Fall '07.   

QUESTION: is there excessive play in the centerboard?  When hard on a tack with CB down, it vibrates.  It sounds semi-horrid to ThomS, but others say "that's normal..."

* DO NOT let the pennant run free!  I.e., don't let the centerboard drop!

* Simplistic guidelines for positioning might (i.e. just dreaming some up Feb08) be:

** deploy down when on the wind

** positioning too far up going to windward may give more lee helm  (CR moves backwards), and of course allows more leeway

** positioning too far up going downwind may allow more yaw (or maybe not, if the sea's wavelength is just-so)

** the more up it's positioned, the less drag the CB gives

=== Ship's Machinery ===

==== power train ====

 

===== engine =====

* ser #: 18P/830A/0247B911

* Tartan's [[Engine schematic dgm]] of 12-V DC circuitry which comes with the Engine

** a Wiring Diagram of the circuitry on this schematic is in section Q of the Tech Manual

::: * shows 360 ohm @ 100 deg, 25 ohm @ 230 deg

: See Tech Letter #72 page V.4 Engine Manual  

::connections for each kind of gauge gauge.

===== transmission =====

: * Type of transmission fluid: ATF type A, or Dextron II

===== drive shaft, coupler, stuffing box =====

===== propeller =====

The prop we got on Nevermore is fixed, 2-bladed. Size & pitch are unknown.

==== steering & binnacle ====

===== Wheel, drive & quadrant mechanism, rudder-post =====

: Per [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|Owner's manual]] page 8, the Tartan-37 is equipped with an Edson Radial Drive pedestal steering system.

: The "Information on maintenance ... included elsewhere in this manual" can't be found [ThomS Feb08].

: TODO: Enter model numbers herein, and see if any ref material is on web.

===== emergency tiller =====

: (See [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|Owner's manual]] page 8, STEERING)

:** The tiller handle, an aluminum tube, should be stored in the lazarette for immediate use.

:** The nut should be tried regularly to make sure it can quickly be undone in an emergency.

:** In which case, the tiller may not steer the boat.

:*** One might mentally rehearse using the emergency tiller to work the jam free.

:** While responding quickly and resolutely, no crew should take chances at getting caught in the cabling or chains while unjamming the cables/quadrant.

:* One might rehearse on the water what the emergency tiller feels like when used with the rudder NOT jammed, to have an idea of whether it IS jammed when the steering breaks, since it usually requires a lot of force even when the steering is NOT jammed.

:** located on port cockpit combing in driver's seat

:** location: probably is the unit aft of steering quadrant, a little stbd of centerline; attaches to top of quadrant

:** switch #2 observed on vertical set of [[Nav station switches]] (we didn't trace this circuit to the system (Fall '07))

* expected to see a stand-by current, but it MAY have been too small to observe <br> since AP11 Control Unit max current < 1/2 amp when ON and illumination fully on

* we never turned the system on at control unit

==== bilge pumps ====

===== Electric Bilge Pump =====

Specs:

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" style="margin: 10px"

This pump is mounted on the port side of the stern lazarette.  A white, corregated plastic ("Bilge-flex"), 3/4" I.D. hose leads from the bilge to the pump.  A white, corregated plastic, 5/8" I.D. hose leads from the pump to a through-hull port on the starboard side near the stern.  Note that this is the same port used by the manual bilge pump.

[[Image:BilgepumpCircuit.gif]]

The bilge pump is wired directly from battery #1 to the 3-way switch on the nav station breaker panel.  The up position manually turns on the pump.  The down position puts the pump in automatic mode, in which a "float switch" will turn on the pump when water level in the bilge rises.  A 15-amp fuse is inline with the positive lead from battery #1.  The yellow rubber fuse holder for this fuse is strapped to the wiring harness that runs directly above battery #1.

Also see [[Nav_station_switches|Bilge pump 3-way toggle switch]] table for an outline description of the above paragraph.

The '''float switch''' (which doesn't actualy float) for the bilge pump is located behind the aft-most panel above the port bench in the cabin (just forward of the nav station).  An orange hockey-puck-sized rubber cover surrounds a microswitch which is affixed to a rubber diaphram.  A black plastic air tube runs from the diaphram to a plastic air bell in the bilge.  Rising water in the bilge will increase air pressure in the tube and activate the switch.

As of 9/3/2007, the switch is not sensitive enough to be activated by 6 inches of water.

Deeper water might activate the pump, but the required depth is unknown.

A newer model float switch (Jabsco Hydro Air Bilge Switch) will be ordered.

Old switch probably Licon Switch 11-330071 10-amp (per Thom scruffy note).

===== Manual Bilge Pump =====

[[Image:Blackwater.gif|thumb=Blackwater_thumb.gif|right|Nevermore Blackwater Plumbing Schematic]]

Nevermore is equipped with a standard marine toilet and a plastic holding tank.  It is classified as a "Type III Marine Sanitation Device", which means that the waste is not treated, it is simply stored inside the holding tank until it can be pumped out.  Note that there is no way to pump out the holding tank from the boat; the waste must be sucked out of the holding tank through the "waste" deck fitting.

If the flush valve next to the hand pump is in the "flush" position (vertical), then seawater will be pumped into the bowl when the the hand pump is operated.  If the flush valve is in the "pump dry" position (horizontal and to port), then no seawater will be added to the bowl during pumping.

The hand pump simulateously pumps seawater into the bowl (if the flush valve is open) and waste out of the bowl.  The waste is pumped through about 15 feet of 2" O.D. hose, which includes an anti-siphon loop.  After the loop, the waste goes into a plastic Y-valve with a blue handle that is under the sink basin.  If you can read the words "to tank" on the blue handle, then the waste is being pumped into the holding tank under the port side V-berth.  If you can read the word "overboard" on the blue handle, then waste is being routed to the large bronze seacock.

During normal operation of the vessel, the Y-valve should be in the "To Tank" position and the large bronze seacock should be closed.

Three hoses go from the holding tank up to the port side deck.  A 2" diameter hose goes to the pumpout port on the deck (labeled "Waste").  A 1" diameter hose goes to a water inlet port next to the pumpout port.  This inlet has garden hose threads and can be used to facilitate flushing out the holding tank.  Another 1" diameter hose goes from the top of the holding tank to an air vent on the upper topsides, just below the pumpout port.

This writer hasn't checked out the ice box, but has tripped across various info here-'n'-there [ThomS Feb08]:

STATUS: (as commented above): not sure if has "classic" ice holder; not sure where ice melt drains; refrigeration indicates NO electrical battery use implying another switch, or something burned out or disconnected.

See [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|T37 Owner's Instructions]] pages 16-17 for operation of the stove.

SAFETY COMMENTS:

* The statement that "the gas is burned in much the same manner as in a home has stove" is literally true, but somewhat misleading because it might imply that one turns on the gas, lights the stove, and is ready to cook.  However, the steps 7, 8, 9, and part of 10 -- which comprise turning on the gas and lighting the stove, imply a more complicated situation, and with good reason.

* Especially step 7 -- wherein we get some alcohol into the lower part of the burner -- is important to get right.  We can suggest looking in the burner with a flashlight as the valve is turned on to "watch the alcohol flowing into the little pan," to make SURE not to get too much fuel in the little cup.  Maybe the "one turn" on is an excessive amount to turn the valve on, unless the stove hasn't been used for awhile.  [At least one Aleida skipper found it IMPOSSIBLE to describe what's needed without a demonstration...] 

* Part of the instructions in step 8 include "if the flames are licking at the overhead, ... extinguish with water."  Think about it: if you're gonna boil some water anyway, why not draw it BEFORE your first times at lighting the stove.

* We note that step 11's order of turn-off (master shut-off valve first, then burner valve) may be different from instructions in the paperwork that came with the stove, and was not used on Aleida as far as I [ThomS] knows.  However, it does give a more safe condition for the stove when it isn't being used, purging pressure from the fuel line.

Page 10 of the [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|T37 Owner's manual]] describes operation and maintenance of the fresh water system; however, the system has been changed, especially concerning filling the tanks, as mentioned later below.

There are two fill fittings on the starboard deck, one for each tank, while the original configuration had only ONE fill fitting.  Nevermore's copy of the Owner's manual has been marked up to indicate how to fill both tanks (the original configuration required filling the port tank through the starboard tank.)

Note the admonition (also on page 10, in the "HOT WATER" section) that the fresh-water pump should be ON while heating water using 110-volt shore power.  The water is usually warmed by the engine's fresh-water cooling water; this does not require the pump to remain ON; there's no control to turn this heating on or off.

[[Image:freshwater-system.png|Freshwater System Schematic]]

(this is a rough diagram - just testing my ability to upload images to the wiki)

===== Fresh Water Pump =====

Specs:

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" style="margin: 10px"

===== Fresh Water Strainer =====

Water from one or both tanks is filtered by a steel screen strainer  which is inline just before the water pump.

The strainer can be cleaned by unscrewing the plastic cover from the top, removing the cylindrical screen, and rinsing it out with fresh water.

=== Ship's Electrical Subsystems  ===

==== 12-Volt DC ====

===== Switch Panel at Nav Station =====

 

# Meters for battery voltage and current

# Electric Bilge Pump Switch

## top row has 6 switch/breaker devices

## bottom row (probably) has switch-only devices

# Secondary Vertical Switch Sub-Panel - 7 switching devices a mix of switch-only and switch/breakers

# Nav Instruments Sub-Panel

      See [[nav_station_switches]] for tables of usages of individual switches.

      See [[nav_station_switches_wiring]] for diagrams and discussions.

Meter ranges: voltmeter 0 - 25 VDC; ammeter 0 - 50 A

 

Voltmeter quirk: it appears to read high by approx 1.4 or 1.5 volts.

The zero-point for the meter has been adjusted to read battery voltages

* Note: an expanded-range voltmeter might be better, e.g. 9 - 15 VDC.

 

Ammeter reads only the current being used by some of the ship's systems,

but not any usage by the engine; it especially does not indicate  

battery charging; the ammeter on the engine control panel does that.

 

In addition, the ammeter terminal with 12-V feed from the batteries

(red "thick" wire (approx #10-gauge) also has a "thick" white wire going

back out of the panel via the wiring bundle; we suspect there's a ship's

by the ammeter.  

 

TODO: trace the white "thick" wire from the ammeter and find the unknown ship's system.

* Use of switch is defined in [[Systems Descriptions#Electric Bilge Pump|Electric Bilge Pump]] section.

* Twelve combination switches/circuit-breakers arranged in two horizontal rows.

* Battery voltage to this sub-panel's switches is OFF unless battery power is ON on one (or more) main rotary battery switch.

* No voltage is applied to the remainder of the 11 switches unless the upper-left-most switch of this sub-panel (named "MAIN") is on.

'''Vertical Switch Sub-Panel''' at Nav Station  

Note that the horizontal sub-panel's "main" switch does NOT control power to this sub-panel; it is not separately fused.

This control subpanel is associated with cockpit Nav instruments.

** Thom's guess: logs usually work off knotmeter (or are integral with them)

** Two wires go from the counter out the wiring bundle allegedly to an instrument; we didn't see any other circuit within this sub-panel connected to the counter's drive circuit; one wire is grounded in the main panel; the other wire must get its signal from the instrument itself to "pulse" the counter.

 

 

 

* Both have AFD (alternator field disconnect) but they aren't wired, hence it is '''very important that at least ONE battery be selected ON''' at all times that the engine is running.

Emphasizing importance of above: we've found '''NO''' alternator

protector (West Marine catalog index term) to prevent over-voltage

from blowing the alternator's diodes when all batteries are turned  

"OFF" while running the engine; nor are the AFD (alternator field

disconnect) contacts on the main switches wired (nor can they BE

wired, with the present wiring of the bottom switch Batt #2 contact.)

===== 120-V AC Battery Charger =====

This unit is located directly forward of the nav station and under the port-side settee. It is powered by 120-V AC shore power, and outputs three isolated lines of +13.x V DC for charging 3 batteries.  There is a common "-" also.

The converter also accepts a 12-V DC signal from the engine which inhibits charging output from the Converter when the engine is running; i.e., when the signal line has 12-V on it.  This input comes (by the small blue wire) from the engine such that the 12V is ON when the fuel-pump switch is closed.  If the batteries are weak when starting, such that voltage in the "blue wire" drops sufficiently, the charger will boost starting current to the engine if the charger is ON.

There is a switch for turning ON the 120-V AC input to the Converter.  The main AC switch (left one on bulkhead above the Nav station) activates the 110-V AC power source for the charger.

On Nevermore, the blue charge-inhibition wire is connected to the fuel-pressure switch on the engine, such that it delivers +12v when the engine is running, i.e. when the fuel-pressure switch is ON.

  alternator in Fall 2007.  As of May 8, 2008, it was still disconnected.  It must

  be reconnected before attempting to use the charging system.

Circuit protection includes:

* 2 30-amp fuses in 110V-AC input line, one in each line (white & black); schematic shows them wired before the unit's on/off switch, which is only in one line (black);

::{| border="1" |-

|+ '''Specifications - 120-V AC Battery Charger'''  

|Input power:

| 100 to 130-V AC, 8 amp

|Output power:

| 12-V DC, 30 amp  (Thom assumes 30 amp shared across all 3 ckts)

|Duty cycle:

|80 [something?] GR

|Manufacturer:

|Raritan Engineering Co, Milville, NJ

|Model:

| R3012-3 Crown Automatic Marine Converter

|Serial No:

|1090621 (probably; Th's notes soiled)  

'''Operation:'''

The ship's main 110-V AC switch to left of nav station must be ON, and of course the shore power cord should be powered, before the charger's front-panel switch will turn on power; the front-panel pilot light should then illuminate. The pilot light will remain ON even when the engine is running such that the charger output is inhibited.

The following admonitions are given to prevent serious damage to the converter:

* Always use a battery with the converter; don't run it open-load;

* do not test for converter output by momentarily flashing the positive and negative DC out leads (as is sometimes done with batteries.)

Looking to the future, we boserve that the charger (converter) is designed to charge up to 3 12-volt lead-acid (flooded) batteries.  There's NO indication that it is useful for more modern battery types (e.g. Gel or AGM).  Its charging profile for lead-acid batteries appears pretty trivial: it was observed (Nov07-Jan08) to charge moderately charged-up batteries for just maybe 10 minutes and then fade fairly quickly to a trickle-charge, as would be appropriate if Nevermore were kept at a pier with shore-power for long periods of time.   

*'''TODO:''' find exactly where the blue wire connects to engine-running signal.

[[Image:Tricolor.jpg|thumb=Tricolor_thumb.jpg|right|Tricolor, Anchor, Strobe]]

'''Tri-Color/Anchor/Strobe'''

* Model: Aquasignal Series 40: tricolor / anchor / strobe, quicfits (Model # 40806)

* "Quicfits" connector means that the unit can be easily unclipped from the top of the mast by sqeezing the black tabs at the bottom of the unit and pulling the whole assembly up.

* Bulbs:

* [http://www.aquasignal.info/ecat/index.php?category_id=1&subcategory_id=1&product_id=48&item_id=330 Aquasignal Website]

[[Image:Masthead_parts.jpg|thumb=Masthead_parts_thumb.jpg|right|Dissassembled Steaming / Foredeck Light Assembly]]

'''Steaming/Foredeck Light'''

Make and model is unknown. Similar models use 10W bulbs for steaming light and 20W flood bulbs for foredeck illuminaton.

Here's a few observations of 120-volt AC circuits off top-of-my-head:

* Shore power connector on port quarter; it is the aft-most of 2 connectors.  (Other is "phone".)

* The shore-power connection is for 120-volt AC, 20/30-amp locking connectors.

* Two shore power cords are aboard, both with 30A locking connectors.  Each is probably 25 foot length.

TODO: check continuity w/o plugging in to shore, trying to have only the water heater on

      in one test to see whether it's connected, etc. (Hint: the battery charger Converter

TODO: measure length of cords.

==== anti-electrolysis ====

Calder uses the terms "galvanic corrosion" (p.132) and "stray-current corrosion" (p.140) instead of "electrolysis".  The result of both kinds of corrosion is that metal parts get acted on to become spongy, brittle, porous, or just lose metal and crumble away.  The use of sacrificial zinc objects helps alleviate this hazard.

  but first, make a "hardcopy" book reference list at upper levels of this wiki.

A simplistic description of the cause of, and solution to, these corrosions (AKA electrolysis):

Any two different metals immersed in salt water (an electrolyte) develop a difference in voltage between :each other. This galvanic voltage will cause a current to flow from the lower voltage metal to the higher voltage one, and to return through any metallic connection between the two metals.  The result of these flows is that the lower voltage metal is consumed.  The dissimilar metals can be physically found in two different boat parts immersed in the salt water, or in one boat part from an ALLOY of two (or more) metals, in which case the return path is the metal itself.   

** [ThomS's modification of above statement]: pencil-zincs may require replacement when only the part of them in the water has "half-eroded or dissolved", not the whole area or mass of zinc

Types of Material: [West Marine catalog 2007, p.361]:

===== - - - - * sacrificial guppy on cable  =====

[[IMAGE:P1090820-8x6-72p6q.jpg|thumb=P1090820 zincs-thumb.jpg|2 prop-shaft zincs]]  

[[P1090819-zincs-2007-144p6q]] shows the prop-shaft zincs Fall 2007, printed large enough to show their inhabitants and erosion of the zinc a bit.

We assume they installed two smaller ones rather than one zinc so that there'll be adequate total surface area without causing the prop to be in the wash of the zincs.

We don't know whether the erosion on these zincs is excessive; we think not, except that one seemingly knowledgeable sailor mentioned that maybe zinc can be eroded, leaving only any other metal the zincs include to make them stronger, etc. 

We measured the shaft at just under 1.5 inches, inside the hull, maybe 6 to 12 inches aft of the shaft coupling to the transmission. Who knows whether it's the same diameter outside the hull?

===== - - - - * sacrificial zincs in engine =====

[[IMAGE:Zincs-2 new dec07-7x4 72p.gif|thumb=Zincs-2_samples72-thumb.gif|2 Engine zincs]]

There are two pencil-zincs protecting the engine; one is in the heat exchanger, and one is in the oil cooler.

See [[Engine zincs replace 2007]] for a report and discussion of replacing the two engine pencil-zincs.

                * pencil-zinc in heat exchanger item 23

            Engine manual mentions something like "zinc in heat exchanger" (p.20)

            Maintenance log (penned on back page of manual)

                says "replaced both zincs..." but implied only the

            TODO: bring up to THIS page the more detailed findings from

                      heat exchanger and oil cooler are pictured;

===== - - - - * sacrificial zinc connected to ship's common ground =====

==== lightning-dissipation ====

==== Fathometer ====

* Manufacturer: Airmar

* Part No.: 31-241-3-01

==== Knotmeter ====

==== Windmeter ====

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" style="margin: 10px"  

* [[http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/GPSMAP276C_QuickReferenceGuide.pdf Quick Reference Guide]]

* '''Display:''' Ratheon R20XX display unit (mounted to the left of the nav station)

 

==== RADAR detector ====

Receives radar signals from other boats (passive receiver) and sounds alarm and indicates octant of bearing to the ship.

==== VHF Radio - Hand-held ====

==== thru-hulls ====

            * thru-hull valve handle wrench

            * sledge hammer for thru-hull plugs

            * cable cutters for shrouds

            * axe esp. to cut away mast

==== hull/deck/cockpit ====

                painter(s) / tow-line

:::'''''NOTE: we're dumping in Aleida's entry right now (28Aug07)'''''

:::'''''NOTE: we're striking out old Aleida parts of entries (11Apr08)'''''

* fire extinguishers <strike>(2 mounted, 1 extra)  (TODO: define type, size)</strike> EMGCY

::        <strike>2 mount by companionway and in head; 1 extra in fwd cabin shelf</strike>

* manual bilge pump  (and handle) <strike>(under sink main cabin)</strike> [thru-hull] EMGCY

* liferaft     <strike>(big, simple, open, self-inflatable) (in stbd laz) EMGCY</strike>

** type 1 (NOTE: OUPV class skippers will probably require all type-1s aboard Nevermore)

** type 4 <strike>(2 cushions)</strike>    (TODO: how many, where) SAFETY

** inflatable type 5 equiv type 2 manual op (25? pounds flotation)     SAFETY

** type 3 jackets (like pavilion)   <strike>(in stbd laz hammocks)</strike> SAFETY

** type 3 "collars" (use with inflatables) <strike>(in port laz plastic "box")</strike> SAFETY