Nevermore Systems Descriptions
Contents
- 1 S/V Nevermore Ship's System Descriptions
- 1.1 CONTENTS
- 1.2 SUBSYSTEMS TO BE ADDED TO THIS DOCUMENT
- 1.3 BOAT SYSTEMS
- 1.3.1 standing and running rigging (including mast-partners)
- 1.3.2 Keel-Centerboard
- 1.3.3 Ship's Machinery
- 1.3.4 Ship's Electrical Subsystems
- 1.3.5 Electronics
- 1.3.6 Hull and joinerwork inside
- 1.4 DINGHY
- 1.5 SAFETY/EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT
- 1.6 OPERATIONAL EQUIPMENT
- 1.7 DOCUMENTATION and REFERENCES
- 1.8 MARINE SUPPLIES and SERVICES
- 1.9 REFERENCE DOCS and WEB SITES
S/V Nevermore Ship's System Descriptions
This document purports to be an exhaustive list of Nevermore's various subsystems, expressed technically. Some sections document technical studies of some of the subsystems because we feel that other mariners will need the information sd they repair or enhance those subsystems. Other sections herein document findings from technical work we've done, which give other workers a chance to double-check their mates' understanding of the systems, in addition to learning more about Nevermore themselves.
It'll become apparent to the reader that the document will be incomplete in many areas, and possibly too detailed in others. Such readers are invited to become editors/researchers and fill in missing information and reorganize the info at hand.
Editor's note: * See Systems Description section numbering 26Dec07 list of subsection names which include subsection numbering which we're going to remove 26Dec07. We expect that this subsections list will become moot very soon. * This document is spun off Aleida's Sub-System list version 11June04.
CONTENTS
SUBSYSTEMS TO BE ADDED TO THIS DOCUMENT
- Traveller (where does this go? Running rigging?)
- Jib furler
BOAT SYSTEMS
standing and running rigging (including mast-partners)
* standing rigging (including mast-partners)
* running rigging
(do we want this header, since it's just a
nuisance to put sails in subheaders under
it (which we didn't do, you'll notice)
(Maybe if I could think of more things to
list under standing rigging, I'd like to
have separate "standing" and "running" headers?)
- MAINSAIL
- Dutchman furling system
- traveller
- STATUS: the traveller didn't work well when we got the boat 2007. We originally planned merely to re-rig its lines and the like. Then we realized it's pretty bad in general: car doesn't translate easily; the car abrades the dodger; lines in the traveller get abraded by parts of it; lines don't run to cockpit freely, being fouled by dodger access cringles; etc.
- (See Fix_traveller for an outline of the 2007-08 task to replace the traveller.)
- (See 2007_Traveler_Pictures for some snaps of the original (2007) traveller.)
- STATUS: the traveller didn't work well when we got the boat 2007. We originally planned merely to re-rig its lines and the like. Then we realized it's pretty bad in general: car doesn't translate easily; the car abrades the dodger; lines in the traveller get abraded by parts of it; lines don't run to cockpit freely, being fouled by dodger access cringles; etc.
- boomvang
- preventer (for boom) (haven't seen one aboard?)
- FORESAIL
- Large genoa (what size?)
- Small genoa (what size?) (any head-/tack- pennants needed?)
- jib?
- furler (which is more a Standing Rigging thing, isn't it?)
- spinnaker (size? and its guy snatchblock, pole, pole uphaul? downhaul? sock)
- storm jib??
- storm trysail (main)?
Keel-Centerboard
The keel provides weight for righting moment, and also accommodates the slot for the centerboard.
Note that we were told that there is a "box" inside the slot that can be unbolted so we can lower the centerboard out. We didn't see such a thing Fall '07.
(See Owner's Instructions pages 4, 5, 5A for rigging and adjusting the centerboard pennant and tag line, and pages 14, 15, 15A for replacing the pennant.)
TODO: find weights of keel and centerboard. TODO: find out possibilities for removing CB.
QUESTION: is there excessive play in the centerboard? When hard on a tack with CB down, it vibrates. It sounds semi-horrid to ThomS, but others say "that's normal..."
Operation Hints:
- DO NOT let the pennant run free! I.e., don't let the centerboard drop!
- The instructions show how to place the block on the pennant so that the tag line will allow full upward position of the CB, and also allow full extension of the CB when the tag line is freed.
- Simplistic guidelines for positioning might (i.e. just dreaming some up Feb08) be:
- deploy down when on the wind
- pull up when running
- positioning too far up going to windward may give more lee helm (CR moves backwards), and of course allows more leeway
- positioning too far up going downwind may allow more yaw (or maybe not, if the sea's wavelength is just-so)
- the more up it's positioned, the less drag the CB gives
- what else?
Ship's Machinery
power train
engine
- * Engine model: Westerbeke 50
See Tartan's Engine schematic dgm of 12-V DC circuitry which comes with the Engine.
Misc observations (useful in troubleshooting):
- Engine instrument panel gauges (05Sep07):
- Water Temp gauge
- * goes off left (cool) end with sender disconnected (good)
- * shows 360 ohm @ 100 deg, 25 ohm @ 230 deg
- Oil Pressure gauge
- * goes off left (0 psi) end with sender disconnected (good)
- (but note: Calder p.288 says most O.P. gauges go to high reading)
- * sender shows 460 ohm @ 0 psi, 44 ohm @ 50 psi, 0 ohm @ 80 psi
- Water Temp gauge
- See Tech Letter #72 page V.4 Engine Manual
- "Gauges -vs- Senders non-Interchangeability"
- engine mfgr has used 4 different gauge mfgrs for WT & OP, and each
- requires sender by same mfgr; diagrams are given for configs of
- connections for each kind of gauge gauge.
- TODO: define here which make of gauges we have (so tested above),
- and (a) mention it in the 2 sets of resistance readings above,
- and (b) annotate Engine Manual
transmission
- * Appears to be a "Short Profile Sailing Gear" transmission, HBW Model 10
- (page S.41 of Engine Manual, by comparing it to descriptions of
- about 5 different kinds of transmissions described therein,
- then getting the 5, 10 or 20 size from title in |Parts List)
- * Type of transmission fluid: ATF type A, or Dextron II
- * fluid quantity (for Model 10): 0.6 litre
drive shaft, coupler, stuffing box
propeller
The prop we got on Nevermore is fixed, 2-bladed. Size & pitch are unknown.
TODO:
- look for a prop model number, and/or look for an info folder aboard
- look for a cutlass bearing model number or other info aboard
- can we measure pitch?
- measure shaft diameter (to replace zincs)
- [Thom measured shaft just a little less than 1.5 inch, with dopey micrometer]
- mark shaft inside the boat for vertical position of blades
Note that aboard is a datasheet for a VARIABLE prop. We think it is for a 2-bladed prop too. And a 1985 (I think) application for a racing handicap listed Nevermore as having a variable prop. we assume this IMS handicap application was associated with the 1985 Bermuda race.
steering & binnacle
Wheel, drive & quadrant mechanism, rudder-post
- Per Owner's manual page 8, the Tartan-37 is equipped with an Edson Radial Drive pedestal steering system.
- The "Information on maintenance ... included elsewhere in this manual" can't be found [ThomS Feb08].
- TODO: Enter model numbers herein, and see if any ref material is on web.
emergency tiller
- (See Owner's manual page 8, STEERING)
- The emergency tiller comes in two pieces.
- One piece fits inside the rudder post, and may be left there.
- TODO: check that Nevermore's tiller piece is in the rudder post.
- The tiller handle, an aluminum tube, should be stored in the lazarette for immediate use.
- One piece fits inside the rudder post, and may be left there.
- The emergency tiller doesn't allow as much rudder angle as the wheel, and force on the tiller can be considerable.
- Emergency steering may be easier with the wheel removed.
- The nut should be tried regularly to make sure it can quickly be undone in an emergency.
- The emergency tiller comes in two pieces.
- Thoughts:
- The rudder can fail when something jams in the steering quadrant.
- In which case, the tiller may not steer the boat.
- One might mentally rehearse using the emergency tiller to work the jam free.
- While responding quickly and resolutely, no crew should take chances at getting caught in the cabling or chains while unjamming the cables/quadrant.
- One might mentally rehearse the sound signals for Vessel Not Under Command before needing the signal.
- In which case, the tiller may not steer the boat.
- One might rehearse on the water what the emergency tiller feels like when used with the rudder NOT jammed, to have an idea of whether it IS jammed when the steering breaks, since it usually requires a lot of force even when the steering is NOT jammed.
- The rudder can fail when something jams in the steering quadrant.
Autopilot
- According to the manual page 8, a basic autopilot system consists of:
- Control Unit (AP11)
- located on port cockpit combing in driver's seat
- Junction Unit (J3000X or J300X)
- located on fuel tank bulkhead behind nav station seat
- Drive Unit (no model # page 8, RPU80/RPU180 per diagram page 9)
- located to port of steering quadrant in stern lazaret
- Fluxgate Compass (RFC35)
- located behind port settee, forward face of panel of cabinet above nav station
- TODO: verify exactly where it's loczted (note: we thought (Fall '07) that it is part of RADAR system)
- located behind port settee, forward face of panel of cabinet above nav station
- Rudder Feedback Unit (RF300)
- location: didn't see one aboard (ThomS as of Feb08)
- power feed from ship's 12V subsystem
- switch observed on main 12-V switch panel above nav station (vertical row of switches)
- Control Unit (AP11)
bilge pumps
Electric Bilge Pump
Jabsco Water Puppy (Model 18660-0121).
Specs:
| Body | Bronze |
| Impeller | Neoprene p/n 6303-0001, -0003 nitrite for oil-resistence |
| Voltage | 12 Vdc |
| Amp Draw | 8 amp |
| Fuse Size | 15 amp |
| Port Type | 1/2" Internal Pipe Threads |
| Dimensions | 3 x 4-3/4 x 6-3/8 inches (7.6 x 12.0 x 16.2 cms) |
| Weight | 4-1/2 lb (2 kg) |
More information can be found in the Jabsco Water Puppy Technical Data Sheet
This pump is mounted on the port side of the stern lazarette. A white, corregated plastic ("Bilge-flex"), 3/4" I.D. hose leads from the bilge to the pump. A white, corregated plastic, 5/8" I.D. hose leads from the pump to a through-hull port on the starboard side near the stern. Note that this is the same port used by the manual bilge pump.
The bilge pump is wired directly from battery #1 to the 3-way switch on the nav station breaker panel. The up position manually turns on the pump. The down position puts the pump in automatic mode, in which a "float switch" will turn on the pump when water level in the bilge rises. A 15-amp fuse is inline with the positive lead from battery #1. The yellow rubber fuse holder for this fuse is strapped to the wiring harness that runs directly above battery #1.
The float switch (which doesn't actualy float) for the bilge pump is located behind the aft-most panel above the port bench in the cabin (just forward of the nav station). An orange hockey-puck-sized rubber cover surrounds a microswitch which is affixed to a rubber diaphram. A black plastic air tube runs from the diaphram to a plastic air bell in the bilge. Rising water in the bilge will increase air pressure in the tube and activate the switch.
As of 9/3/2007, the switch is not sensitive enough to be activated by 6 inches of water. Deeper water might activate the pump, but the required depth is unknown. A newer model float switch (Jabsco Hydro Air Bilge Switch) will be ordered. Old switch probably Licon Switch 11-330071 10-amp (per Thom scruffy note).
Manual Bilge Pump
This pump is mounted on stern lazaret to starboard of steering position. Its handle is tied to boat in stern lazaret. A second handle is aboard. Gray corrugated plastic hose, approx 1", leads from bilge to pump.
TODO: define hose to thru-hull, and position of thru-hull.
TODO: define model number, capacity, etc., of pump.
head
Nevermore is equipped with a standard marine toilet and a plastic holding tank. It is classified as a "Type III Marine Sanitation Device", which means that the waste is not treated, it is simply stored inside the holding tank until it can be pumped out. Note that there is no way to pump out the holding tank from the boat; the waste must be sucked out of the holding tank through the "waste" deck fitting.
The yellow handled seacock under the sink in the head allows seawater to be pumped into the toilet bowl. This seacock also serves as a scupper for the sink.
If the flush valve next to the hand pump is in the "flush" position, then seawater will be pumped into the bowl when the the hand pump is operated. If the flush valve is in the "pump dry" position, then no seawater will be added to the bowl during pumping.
The hand pump simulateously pumps seawater into the bowl (if the flush valve is open) and waste out of the bowl. The waste is pumped through about 15 feet of 2" O.D. hose, which includes an anti-siphon loop. After the loop, the waste goes into a plastic Y-valve with a blue handle that is under the sink basin. If you can read the words "to tank" on the blue handle, then the waste is being pumped into the holding tank under the port side V-berth. If you can read the word "overboard" on the blue handle, then waste is being routed to the large bronze seacock.
During normal operation of the vessel, the Y-valve should be in the "To Tank" position and the large bronze seacock should be closed.
Three hoses go from the holding tank up to the port side deck. A 2" diameter hose goes to the pumpout port on the deck (labeled "Waste"). A 1" diameter hose goes to a water inlet port next to the pumpout port. This inlet has garden hose threads and can be used to facilitate flushing out the holding tank. Another 1" diameter hose goes from the top of the holding tank to an air vent on the upper topsides, just below the pumpout port.
ice box
This writer hasn't checked out the ice box, but has tripped across various info here-'n'-there [ThomS Feb08]:
- The ice box part will obviously use ice for cooling.
- QUES: where does the melting ice drain to.
- We know that it does NOT drain to the "sump" discussed Owners Manual page 11
- QUES: where should the ice be put (esp. given that maybe its "classic" ice box functionality will be modified by the fact that it's also a refrigerator.
- QUES: where does the melting ice drain to.
- The ice box is also a refrigerator.
- there's a compressor unit mounted high up in starboard lazarette; probably on forward bulkhead, but maybe on hull (sorry, don't remember)
- the compressor probably doesn't work, or is burned out, or wiring is removed, based on test Fall '07 by turning on the REFRIGERATION switch on main switch panel and observing that NO current was indicated on the main switch panel ammeter.
STATUS: (as commented above): not sure if has "classic" ice holder; not sure where ice melt drains; refrigeration indicates NO electrical battery use.
stove
Fresh Water System
The fresh water system is supplied by 2 tanks, a 30-gallon tank on the port side, and a 60-gallon tank on the starboard side. Each tank has 2 inspection ports which are easily accessed through the lower berth/bench on either side of the main cabin.
Valves under the cabin floor connect the two tanks. Either tank can supply water to the system, or both tanks can be linked together.
(this is a rough diagram - just testing my ability to upload images to the wiki)
Fresh Water Pump
Jabsco Par-Max 3.0 (Model 31395-3000).
Specs:
| Voltage | 12 Vdc |
| Amp Draw | 5.2 amp @ 10 PSI |
| Fuse Size | 10 amp |
| Flow | 3.0 GPM |
| Ports | "Snap-Fit" ports with 1/2" hose adapters |
| Dimensions | 9 x 4.2 x 4.75 inches |
| Weight | 4-1/2 lb (2 kg) |
The water pressure pump is located just forward of the starboard tank, under the lower berth. Diaphram design allows pump to run dry without damage. Internal pressure sensor stops the pump when working pressure is acheived.
Fresh Water Strainer
Jabsco Pumpgard (Model 36400-0000)
Water from one or both tanks is filtered by a steel screen strainer which is inline just before the water pump.
The strainer can be cleaned by unscrewing the plastic cover from the top, removing the cylindrical screen, and rinsing it out with fresh water.
Ship's Electrical Subsystems
12-volt DC
See nav_station_switches for tables of usages of individual switches. See nav_station_switches_wiring for diagrams and discussions.
The main circuit panel above the nav table is organized into groups
of controls including (from left to right):
1. meters for battery voltage and current being used by ship's systems
2. one "bilge/sump" switch controlling the electric bilge pump
3. two horizontal rows of 6 combination circuit-breaker/switches
4. a vertical row of 7 combination circuit-breaker/switches
5. a control subpanel associated with cockpit Nav instruments, with
lamp dimmer control for instrument backlights, a repeater log,
and an additional ckt brkr for the Nav instruments.
Subsections below delineate each one of these groups, but in the order
3, 2, 1, 4, 5, i.e., in the order one might have to use the controls
- - - - - - * main switch/circuit-breaker sub-panels (horizontal switches)
Battery voltage to this sub-panel's switches is OFF unless battery power
is ON on one (or more) main rotary battery switch
No voltage is applied to the remainder of the 11 switches unless
the upper-left-most switch of this sub-panel (named "MAIN") is on.
- - - - - - * sump/bilge switch
Voltage is ALWAYS on to this switch, even when main rotary switches are OFF.
It is always connected to power from Battery #1, through an inline fuse
located in the wiring harness above the battery. Removing the fuse
removes voltage from the main panel's bilge-pump circuits.
Use of switch is defined in Electric Bilge Pump section.
A note on terminology: The terms "bilge" and "sump" are synonymous on
Nevermore; Tartan's original "sump" was a separate catch-basin for ice box
and shower water, while "bilge" was used normally. As far as we know (Sep07),
the "sump" isn't used any more, and we use the 3-way switch to provide
OFF, AUTOMATIC, or MANUAL operation of the single bilge pump.
TODO: mark up T37 Owner Manual page 11 to
NOT talk about the "sump".
TODO: check whether the refigerator (ice box) still drains into
any kind of sump.
TODO: Check whether left-most lower horizontal row switch "SUMP PUMP"
still has anything to do with old or new "sump pump" like Owner's
manual p.11 described??
- - - - - - * meters (voltage, current)
Meter ranges: voltmeter 0 - 25 VDC; ammeter 0 - 50 A
Note: an expanded-range voltmeter might be better, e.g. 9 - 15 VDC.
Voltmeter quirk: it appears to read high by approx 1.4 or 1.5 volts.
The zero-point for the meter has been adjusted to read battery voltages
correctly (per Ted's VOM); therefore the zero-point will be off-scale.
Ammeter reads only the current being used by some of the ship's systems,
but not any usage by the engine; it especially does not indicate
battery charging; the ammeter on the engine control panel does that.
- - - - - - * auxiliary switch sub-panel (vertical) at Nav Station
Note that the horizontal sub-panel's "main" switch does NOT
control power to this sub-panel; it is not separately fused.
- - - - - - * other control panel upper-right of nav-station panel
TODO: check what Ted said about "extra ckt brkr protection of Nav
instruments in item 5 above, and make a statement in terms
of how primary 12-V power is provided to them.
- - - - * Batteries
Batteries #1 and #2 (controlled by top main rotary switch) are
"mixed use" (starting and deep discharge) batteries of the same type;
they're located below nav station seat; #2 is fwd, #1 aft
Powermaster DC-27P, flooded, 750 MCA, 200 min reserve
Battery #3 (controlled by bottom main rotary switch) is
"heavy duty marine starting" battery located in engine compartment
Powermaster (unknown model), flooded, (unknown values)
The two rotary battery switches are
Guest 2300A, 360-amp, 600-amp momentary;
both have AFD (alternator field disconnect) but they aren't wired.
hence it is very important that at least ONE battery be
selected =ON= at all times that the engine is running.
Emphasizing importance of above: we've found NO alternator
protector (West Marine catalog index term) to prevent over-voltage
from blowing the alternator's diodes when all batteries are turned
"OFF" while running the engine; nor are the AFD (alternator field
disconnect) contacts on the main switches wired (nor can they BE
wired, with the present wiring of the bottom switch Batt #2 contact.)
TODO: put some of the AFD unwirability discussion in a "quirk" section,
and make a simpler statement in THIS paragraph...
- See Main Batteries Usage Strategies
- for instruction and rationales for battery switching and use.
- See Main 12-volt Control Schematic Diagram
- which includes schematic (graphic) and a walk-thru of circuitry (text).
- - - - * 120-V AC Battery Charger
This unit is located directly forward of the nav station and under the port-side settee. It is powered by 120-V AC shore power, and outputs three isolated lines of +13.x V DC for charging 3 batteries. There is a common "-" also.
The converter also accepts a 12-V DC signal from the engine which inhibits charging output from the Converter when the engine is running; i.e., when the signal line has 12-V on it. This input comes (by the small blue wire) from the engine such that the 12V is ON when the fuel-pump switch is closed. If the batteries are weak when starting, such that voltage in the "blue wire" drops sufficiently, the charger will boost starting current to the engine if the charger is ON.
There is a switch for turning ON the 120-V AC input to the Converter. The main AC switch (left one on bulkhead above the Nav station) activates the 110-V AC power source for the charger.
On Nevermore, there are two 2-conductor "romex" wires with the 12-V DC charging current, each with 1 black and 1 white wire); these four wires are used as follows:
- 2 whites to "+" of Batteries #1 and #2, connected to these terminals on top primary battery switch;
- 1 black to "+" of Battery #3's terminal on lower primary battery switch; and
- 1 black common "-" connected to the common ground 12-V "-" point of the engine.
On Nevermore, the blue charge-inhibition wire is in the 12V Schematic's "cloud of assumptions" somewhere such that it gets +12v when the engine is running, i.e. when the fuel-pressure switch is ON.
:(above: blue wire is disconnected (Ted->Thom email 06Oct07))
Circuit protection includes:
- 2 30-amp fuses in 110V-AC input line, one in each line (white & black); schematic shows them wired before the unit's on/off switch, which is only in one line (black);
- 2 1-amp fuses in the 12V-DC "blue wire" charging shutdown circuit which is activated when the engine is running; we only use one of these lines; note that -- if the fuse blows -- the charger will NOT be shutdown when the engine is running;
- a 50-amp circuit breaker, mounted on front panel, is in series with the common "+" point of the 3 isolation diodes for the charging currents to the 3 batteries;
- a thermal breaker on the transformer, modulates a point within the semiconductor charge-control-feedback circuitry.
The output voltage is adjustable (with a wire-wound resistor tap, Thom believes) but it isn't something that is done in normal operation. E.g., the instructions say to have the batteries all charged up when you adjust it, so that it's not the kind of thing we'd do to quick-charge a battery, for example.
- More 12-V DC charging functions of this Converter are detailed in subsection 4 of 12V schematic walk-thru
- The 110-V AC function (shore power) for this battery charger are given in 120-volt AC section below.
Specifications - 120-V AC Battery Charger Input power: 100 to 130-V AC, 8 amp Output power: 12-V DC, 30 amp (Thom assumes 30 amp shared across all 3 ckts) Duty cycle: 80 [something?] GR Manufacturer: Raritan Engineering Co, Milville, NJ Model: R3012-3 Crown Automatic Marine Converter Serial No: 1090621 (probably; Th's notes soiled)
OPERATION:
The ship's main 110-V AC switch to left of nav station must be ON, and of course the shore power cord should be powered, before the charger's front-panel switch will turn on power; the front-panel pilot light should then illuminate. The pilot light will remain ON even when the engine is running such that the charger output is inhibited.
The following admonitions are given to prevent serious damage to the converter:
- Always use a battery with the converter; don't run it open-load;
- observe correct polarity of the battery line on hook-up;
- do not test for converter output by momentarily flashing the positive and negative DC out leads (as is sometimes done with batteries.)
OBSERVATION:
Looking to the future, we boserve that the charger (converter) is designed to charge up to 3 12-volt lead-acid (flooded) batteries. There's NO indication that it is useful for more modern battery types (e.g. Gel or AGM). Its charging profile for lead-acid batteries appears pretty trivial: it was observed (Nov07-Jan08) to charge moderately charged-up batteries for just maybe 10 minutes and then fade fairly quickly to a trickle-charge, as would be appropriate if Nevermore were kept at a pier with shore-power for long periods of time.
- TODO: find exactly where the blue wire connects to engine-running signal.
120-volt AC
Here's a few observations of 120-volt AC circuits off top-of-my-head:
- Shore power connector on port quarter; it is the aft-most of 2 connectors. (Other is "phone".)
- Two CktBrkrs on bulkhead to left above nav station seat
- port-most CktBkr: "110 V AC" which we assume is a master switch/CktBrkr for all 120-V AC. The circuits Thom has observed include:
- 120-volt AC -to- 12-volt DC Converter unit, for charging batteries, under settee directly in front of Nav station
- 120-volt "wall-socket" in head
- 120-volt "wall-socket" over sink (or thereabouts)
- perhaps also enables the CktBrk below (hot water)
- starboard-most CktBkr: "WATER SYSTEM" which is heater unit in the same hot water tank that the engine water heats. See Tartan User's Guide for admonition not to turn on 120-volt to heater unless water pressure pump is also turned on.
- port-most CktBkr: "110 V AC" which we assume is a master switch/CktBrkr for all 120-V AC. The circuits Thom has observed include:
- The shore-power connection is for 120-volt AC, 20/30-amp locking connectors.
- Two shore power cords are aboard, both with 30A locking connectors. Each is probably 25 foot length.
TODO: check continuity w/o plugging in to shore, trying to have only the water heater on
in one test to see whether it's connected, etc. (Hint: the battery charger Converter
has a primary on/off switch which Thom assumes switches the AC power on/off.)
TODO: add page number in T. U.G. for admonition about having water pressure on for heater.
DONE: check that shore cords are compatible with ship's connector.
TODO: measure length of cords.
anti-electrolysis
Calder uses the terms "galvanic corrosion" (p.132) and "stray-current corrosion" (p.140) instead of "electrolysis". The result of both kinds of corrosion is that metal parts get acted on to become spongy, brittle, porous, or just lose metal and crumble away. The use of sacrificial zinc objects helps alleviate this hazard.
TODO: make a reference to Calder "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" 2nd Ed; but first, make a "hardcopy" book reference list at upper levels of this wiki.
A simplistic description of the cause of, and solution to, these corrosions (AKA electrolysis):
Any two different metals immersed in salt water (an electrolyte) develop a difference in voltage between :each other. This galvanic voltage will cause a current to flow from the lower voltage metal to the higher voltage one, and to return through any metallic connection between the two metals. The result of these flows is that the lower voltage metal is consumed. The dissimilar metals can be physically found in two different boat parts immersed in the salt water, or in one boat part from an ALLOY of two (or more) metals, in which case the return path is the metal itself.
Voltage difference among boat parts can come about from electrical power sources aboard the boat. These can force stray current flow through the water and through underwater parts. The metal parts are susceptible to being consumed by the current.
Placing a zinc object in the salt water, and connecting all other metal objects in the salt water electrically to the zinc object, ensures that any current generated by any dissimilar metals, or by stray currents, will cause the sacrificial zinc to be eaten away rather than any of the other parts.
When to replace an anode (a zinc): [West Marine catalog 2007, p.361]:
- effectiveness depends on good electrical connection
- effectiveness directly proportional to surface area
- some manufacturers suggest replacement when zinc is 2/3 gone
- West recommends replacement when half-eroded or half-dissolved
- [ThomS's modification of above statement]: pencil-zincs may require replacement when only the part of them in the water has "half-eroded or dissolved", not the whole area or mass of zinc
Types of Material: [West Marine catalog 2007, p.361]: Zinc or aluminum for saltwater; magnesium for fresh water; aluminum for salt and brackish water.
- - - - * sacrificial guppy on cable
- - - - * sacrificial zinc on prop-shaft
P1090819-zincs-2007-144p6q shows the prop-shaft zincs Fall 2007, printed large enough to show their inhabitants and erosion of the zinc a bit.
We assume they installed two smaller ones rather than one zinc so that there'll be adequate total surface area without causing the prop to be in the wash of the zincs.
We don't know whether the erosion on these zincs is excessive; we think not, except that one seemingly knowledgeable sailor mentioned that maybe zinc can be eroded, leaving only any other metal the zincs include to make them stronger, etc.
We measured the shaft at just under 1.5 inches, inside the hull, maybe 6 to 12 inches aft of the shaft coupling to the transmission. Who knows whether it's the same diameter outside the hull?
- - - - * sacrificial zincs in engine
There are two pencil-zincs protecting the engine; one is in the heat exchanger, and one is in the oil cooler.
See Engine zincs replace 2007 for a report and discussion of replacing the two engine pencil-zincs.
See pp.220-221 Westerbeke Parts List, item 33, #11885
* pencil-zinc in heat exchanger item 23
* pencil-zinc in lube oil cooler item 32
Engine manual mentions something like "zinc in heat exchanger" (p.20)
but doesn't mention one in oil cooler.
Maintenance log (penned on back page of manual)
says "replaced both zincs..." but implied only the
heat exchanger one was rotted away (27Nov83, 454 hrs).
Also change ZN 01Jul95
Another ancient log (on 1-2 pages looseleaf notebook paper) may
also mention condition and replacement of zincs
[ThomS couldn't find these sheets Jan08 when looked quickly]
TODO: bring up to THIS page the more detailed findings from
Engine zincs replace 2007 including:
a: 2 sizes of pencil-zincs, though parts list says they're identical;
b: give references to parts list pages where
heat exchanger and oil cooler are pictured;
c: check whether Calder's winterizing checklist
indeed does NOT mention to check zincs
- - - - * sacrificial zinc connected to ship's common ground
- We don't see any such device on Nevermore.
- We note that -- although they're needed to provide a ground as part of the antenna system of a HF radio -- they often aren't fitted if no HF radio is aboard. Hevermore doesn't have an HF radio, only a VHF.
- Question: is ThomS confused above? Isn't external copper [sintered] plate desired for HF radio ground? Maybe we do NOT usually have an uber-ground-plate outside the null for the galvanic corrosion?
- QUESTION: would one be desired/required if we actually get lightning protection?
lightning-dissipation
Electronics
basic instruments
fathometer
- meter and transponder [permanent seal] [thru-hull]
knotmeter
- meter (delivered separate from boat, disappeared into Sailing Pavilion
- transponder (forward port thru-hull), and dummy plug
- TODO: probably want to replace/remove inline BNC we found floating in bilgewater
station VHF
- (fixed)
see Radio_Channels_in_Boston_Harbor for VHF channels likely to be used.
See VHF_Frequencies for a complete list of US VHF channels with their intended usages.
Some channels have been highlighted:
- Note that the channel-usages below are somewhat colloquial
- and are not stated in the officialese of the table ref'd above..
- 16 - emgcy, USCG announcements, and ship-to-ship hailing
- 09 - pleasure-boat hailing (and other uses)
- 22A - Coast Guard advisories (announced on 16),
- ship-to-USCG communication when CG commands it
- 12 - some CG stations (other than Boston) use 12 instead of 22A
- 13 - commercial ship-to-ship bridges; used instead of maneuvering COLREGS whistles;
- use shorthand hailing protocol, terse messages;
- we MIGHT xmit if they talk about us and stating our intentions can help them
- 06 - search-and-rescue
- 68, 69, 71, 78A - non-commercial (boat-to-boat & boat-to-shore facilities)
- 72 - non-commercial boat-to-boat
electronic aids
- - - - * GPS (Binnacle)
- Garmin GPSMAP(r) 276C - aboard fall 2007
- Comment: don't think ship's power is wired to binnacle yet.
- Cartography data can be made available to us with optional data cards and/or by Garmin Mapsource CD-ROMs. The CD-ROM data get loaded onto a data card for use; there's no internal memory for cartography. ThomS doesn't know (Jan08) what kind of chart data we've gotten, but indeed we seem to have Boston Harbor data at least.
- TODO: flesh out this paragraph, including what geographical regions we have available (have bought), and how we'll store the data for different regions and the like.
- [See [Owner's Manual] and [Quick Reference Guide] for the Garmin GPS, in addition to the hardcopy version aboard]
- - - - * GPS (Raytheon, fixed)
- See "RADAR" below, because this GPS is a Subsystem of the Raytheon RADAR system aboard.
- - - - * RADAR
Subsystem: RADAR display (and processor):
- Raytheon R20XX Raster Scan Radar
- operational status:
- shows radar display, PPI line doesn't rotate;
- maybe displays "noise" signal around center of PPI (Sep07)
- later we discover "safety switch" antenna OFF (see in "antenna" below)
TODO: run to see if draws more current in XMIT mode (Thom thinks not)
Subsystem: RADAR antenna on mast
- TODO: define model
- We observe an ON/OFF switch in the base of the mount.
- QUESTION #1: is this a "safety switch" for persons of reproductive age climbing the mast?
- QUESTION #2: might this switch (which TedY found OFF in winterizing Fall '07) the reason why Thom's attempts to test the RADAR (Sep '07) showed scan "noise" o.k., etc., but no RADAR returns?
Subsystem: "central control" box
- TODO: define model
- located above nav station switch panel
- operational status: not wired (no power, Oct07)
Subsystem: GPS antenna and integral receiver
- TODO: define model
- located on pushpit
- sends data messages to "central control" box, is displayed on RADAR display
Subsystem: electronic compass
- Simrad Robertson AS, Type RFC36
- MAYBE (connects to main radar unit, or maybe to the "control unit" over station switches?):
- located behind port settee, forward face of panel of cabinet above nav station
- TODO: look again at EXACTLY where it's located, and where it plugs in...
- QUESTION: Is this compass actually part of the autopilot, not the RADAR? Thom Hmmmm's...
- - - - * RADAR Reflector
- - - - * RADAR passive detector
C.A.R.D. (Collision Avoidance Radar Detector)
receives radar signals from other boats (passive receiver)
and sounds alarm and indicates octant of bearing to the ship
other electronics
- - - - * VHF hand-held (and charger(s))
- One appeared Fall '07 TODO: identify model, etc.
- don't think charger is connected up yet
signaling
- - - - * ship's whistles
compressed air (type of cans?) and mouth-powered
- - - - * ship's bell
- - - - * dayshapes: steaming cone, anchor ball
(not required in US waters?)
- - - - * flares/flag/mirror kit
Hull and joinerwork inside
dimensions & capacities
hull: draft (CB down/up), LOA, LWL
hull number: design number:
mast height:
displacement:
keel / CB weight:
fuel capacity:
fresh water: capacity: number of tanks
thru-hulls
tools (esp. emergency
* thru-hull valve handle wrench
* sledge hammer for thru-hull plugs
* cable cutters for shrouds
* axe esp. to cut away mast
joinery
- - - - * "floor-joists" & tabs to hull
- - - - * cabin sole and hatches
- - - - * drawer open-stops and latches
- - - - * main hatch, companionway, wash boards
hull/deck/cockpit
DINGHY
incl pump, oars/oarlocks, motor, bailer
such things as thwart, bow splash-cover
fuel tank/filler cap/airvent, fuel-hose, pressure bulb
painter(s) / tow-line
anchor and rode
lights
SAFETY/EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT
dedicated safety equipment
NOTE: we're dumping in Aleida's entry right now (28Aug07)
* fire extinguishers (2 mounted, 1 extra) (TODO: define type, size) EMGCY
2 mount by companionway and in head; 1 extra in fwd cabin shelf
* signal flares and flag (in the orange tub by companionway stairs) EMGCY
(out of date flares in another orange tub forward cabin)
TODO: mention what all is in the primary orange tub
* manual bilge pump (and handle) (under sink main cabin) [thru-hull] EMGCY
* liferaft (big, simple, open, self-inflatable) (in stbd laz) EMGCY
TODO: fill in info about liferaft
* PFDs
* inflatable type 5 equiv type 2 manual op (25? pounds flotation) SAFETY
TODO: how many? and list the belt version?
* type 4 (2 cushions) SAFETY
* type 3 jackets (like pavilion) (in stbd laz hammocks) SAFETYs
* type 3 "collars" (use with inflatables) (in port laz plastic "box") SAFETY
* harnesses (not known compat with PFDs) SAFETY
* jacklines (2) SAFETY
* MOB horseshoe + drogue + flag + strobe [6-v screw-term lantern batt] EMGCY
* MOB lifesling lifesling block-n-tackle (use spinnaker halyard) EMGCY
* first aid kit stored in cupboard in head) EMGCY
* first aid reference book (???) EMGCY
* emergency tools: * cutaway: shroud cutter, hacksaw?, axe EMGCY
* QUESTION: do we want to list emergency tiller here? EMGCY
cross-ref to other boat equipment for safety/emergencies
NOTE: we're dumping in Aleida's entry right now (28Aug07)
* liferaft: take VHF handheld, extra water, search light
Note that if we use VHF as routine deck monitoring,
battery charge probably depleted before an emergency
TODO: check what is capacity of liferaft
TODO: list what provisions are in liferaft
* thru-hull plugs: p/o hull (stored ???___), bung-hammer (under stairs)
thru-hull valve handle wrench (pipe) (under stairs)
* manual bilge pump: permanently installed and connected to a thru-hull
* standing rigging: shroud-cutters, hacksaw (stored under stairs)
* GPS: batteries for portable op (4 x AA)
* searchlight: batteries for portable (4 x D)
* flashlights: * black "keen" light (8 * AA)
* others: [TODO: decide on standard equip + define]
OPERATIONAL EQUIPMENT
e.g. hand-held compass, binoculars,
searchlight (battery powered and/or ship's 12V powered),
flashlights,
navigational tools
DOCUMENTATION and REFERENCES
(i.e., documents to have aboard; see "reference documents" section below for other docs)
* Nevermore registrations (MA and Boston)
* Dinghy registration (MA)
* SeaTow policy, calling card mounted
* Nevermore installation/maintenance documents
* engine manuals (how many? what are their titles)
* operation booklets: (list equipment, or reference
their sections where defined above)
* miscellaneous systems (in no-order in some kind of folder)
* PHRF-NE rating document
* what reference material must we have?
* current Eldridge?
* pump-out station contacts
* any specific charts?
* some nav rules * shipspotter lights?
* cruising services ref?
* phone-numbers of Franny Charles, Sailing Pav
* Insurance Co (don't need, contact Franny/_who_ for any trouble)
("who" above is name/number of other coach(es))
MARINE SUPPLIES and SERVICES
(Aleida had Winthrop-oriented marine and auto stores)
* West Marine: Woburn Wash. St. at 128, 781-933-3290;
Dedham Allied Dr. at 128; Braintree
* Boxell's Chandlery: South Boston, Dorchester Ave & B-Street,
Red Line Broadway stop
REFERENCE DOCS and WEB SITES
* See Nevermore Documents for a list of Nevermore tech docs and web refs.
