[[Image:Lynx_in_Boston_Harbor.jpg|frame|The Lynx 16 in Boston Harbor, with the Boston skyline in the background.]]

This section describes how to take one of MIT's [[Lynx 16]] boats from
the Sailing Pavilion to Boston Harbor. This document should serve as a guide only; nothing can take the place
of experience of actually going on trips. The procedure is to put an
engine on the boat, step the mast, motor through the lock into the
harbor, raise the mast, and sail away. The process is reversed on the
way back. Further matters pertaining to overnight trips are discussed [[Lynx overnight trips | here]].

Sailing safely in the harbor involves many skills not covered here: reading a chart and understanding navigation
aids, using a VHF radio, knowing how to use all safety equipment, understanding weather conditions and tides,
anchoring, and right-of-way rules. How should you develop these skills? Lynx harbor trips of course are best,
but also sails on our real [http://sailing.mit.edu/bluewater/ bluewater boat X-Dimension] are great opportunities
to learn and practice, particularly the training for the [[Bluewater Ratings | bluewater crew rating]].

== Before the Trip ==

Create an event on the website for the trip. Six people per boat is a practical maximum for comfortable sailing all day in the Lynx for a harbor trip. Three is a reasonable minimum: you can certainly sail with two but the process of putting the mast up and down will be very difficult.

Plan where you are going, and make sure that other people know the
plan. Email Fran Charles and dockmaster@mit.edu to make sure the trip
is okay. Tell them your float plan. Check the weather the night
before and the morning of the trip; if there are thunderstorms,
consider rescheduling.

== Engine ==

We need an engine to get to the harbor, since we must step the mast to
fit under the bridges between the Pavilion and the Harbor. It is also
required to dock at Spectacle Island.

=== Installing the Motor on the Boat ===

The engines are not normally installed on the Lynx, so the first task
is to put the engine on the boat, either the night before or the
morning of the trip. First, tie up a Lynx in front of the bay with
the motors, on the east end of the dock. The side of the boat with
the motor mount should be closest to the dock. Tie a stern line as
tightly as possible so that the motor mount is close to the dock.

Take a Tohatsu 4-stroke engine from the bay, and carry it vertically
to the boat. You can gently rest the engine vertically on the metal
"skeg" which sticks out below the propeller. Do not rest it on the
propeller itself! Then tie a line to the mounting bracket on the
engine, so that if you accidentally drop it, you can quickly pull it
out of the water. Flip the engine and engine mount horizontally so
that the bars on the mounting bracket will fit into the motor mount on
the boat. Guide them into the mount and slowly rotate the engine down
into the water.

=== Starting the Engine ===

After installing the engine, inspect it, and then start it to make
sure that it works. First, check the fuel tank. If it hasn't been
used in a while, and the fuel is old, then it's a good idea to put
conditioner in it. You can get this from the dock staff. If you need
to, add fuel. When testing the engine, it might be better to not add
too much fuel, since if it's broken, it's easier to take the engine
out with an empty fuel tank. The engine takes regular gasoline, the
same as the launches. Take the cover off, and check that the engine
has oil. If not, ask the dock staff to help you add oil.

When the engine is not being used (when sailing, or being stored
overnight), it should be raised up out of the water. Before raising
it, make sure the air is closed before to prevent gas from leaking
out. Raise the motor by pushing a silver handle near the base and
pulling up on the handle. Lower it using a black and metal lever.
The engine should always be started with the propeller blades in the
water.

To start the engine, make sure that the propeller blades are in the
water. Open the air vent by turning the white cap on top of the fuel
tank cap. Make sure the fuel line is set to use the internal tank
using the lever on the right side of the engine. Check that the red
safety button is being held open with the plastic wire. Pull out the
choke. Set the throttle to the starting position. Make sure it is in
neutral. Then pull the handle quickly to start it. Once it catches,
immediately check that water is draining out of the engine; if water
is not coming out, then stop the engine by pushing the red button. It
uses water to cool itself and will overheat quickly of the cooling
system is broken. Slowly push in the choke, and then turn down the
throttle to idle. It may take a while to warm up before it will go
into idle, especially if the engine has not been used in a while.

=== Fuel ===

The engine takes gasoline. It helps to add fuel conditioner, but
there is no need to mix it with oil, as with two stroke engines. One
tank of gas can get from the Pavilion to the Harbor, to and from the
docks at an island, and back to the Pavilion. However it's good to
bring extra fuel in case of unexpected events. The Pavilion has
containers for fuel; it is generally enough to take about one extra
tank. If a tank already has gas in it, it's a good idea to add fuel
conditioner to the gas in the tank. If the engine runs out of fuel
while running, it can take a while to restart it. It is better to
stop the engine, refuel, and then restart it rather than to let it run
out of gas. The fuel container can be stored under one of the
benches. It should be stored securely and tied down to avoid
spilling.

=== Driving With the Motor ===

Next in order-of-operations for a harbor trip is stepping the mast.
However I will cover driving with the motor here so that all the
engine information is together.

When driving with the motor, the boat is classified as a power boat,
and must give way to boats under sail and human-powered boats. To
steer, use the boat's tiller rather than the one on the engine. The
ease of pivoting the engine's tiller can be adjusted by turning a
handle underneath the motor; set this to be fairly stiff so you don't
accidentally move the engine's tiller. However it should be loose
enough so that the engine tiller can still be moved to help turn more
quickly if necessary and to make adjustments to the engine's
direction.

To go forward, turn the throttle all the way down, and switch the
lever on the left side of the engine from neutral to forward. To go
faster, adjust the throttle upwards. To go into reverse, adjust the
throttle down, then switch to neutral, and then switch to reverse; do
not go directly from forward into reverse (or reverse into forward) as
this damages the transmission.

When in tight spaces, lower the centerboard to give the boat more
maneuverability. When traveling long distances, raise the centerboard
to reduce drag. If the boat needs to turn faster, use the engine as
well as the tiller.

You should be able to dock with the engine, and maneuver in fairly
tight spaces in order to go through the locks and use the docks at
Boston Harbor Islands.

=== Turning Off the Motor ===

Do not turn off the motor until the boat is controlled in another way,
either with a line or with the sail. Set the throttle all the way
down, and push the red button to turn it off. Raise the propeller out
of the water if it will not be used in a while. Raise it overnight,
and when under sail. It is okay to leave it in the water for a few
hours when docking at an island.

== Stepping the Mast ==

Make sure the sail is lowered, and put on the sail cover. First, get
and install the mast crutch. They are stored in the workshop. There
is a hole in the seat near the stern of the boat, and a matching hole
in the floor. Put the mast crutch through the bench and into the hole
on the floor.

Take off the forestay. Take a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. At
the base of the forestay is the turnbuckle. Ask one person to lift up
the boom, to take pressure off the mast. Ask a second person to push
forward on the mast. Then take the ringding off the forestay pin and
pull it out. Be careful not to drop it in the water. If you can't
take it out, then you need to loosen the turnbuckle. There are two
ringdings in the two screws in the turnbuckle. Take the ringdings out
of the screws, but leave them attached to the turnbuckle itself. Then
hold the flat part of the turnbuckle with a pair of pliers, and use a
screwdriver to turn the lower part to loosen it. Be careful to turn
it in the proper direction. Never entirely unscrew the screws from
the turnbuckle; just loosen it. Try again to take out the forestay
pin, and loosen the turnbuckle more if necessary. Once the pin is
out, put the ringdings back in the screws on the turnbuckle.
Otherwise the screws could fall out.

Once the forestay is off, get ready to lower the mast. Make sure all
the lines are loose: peak halyard, throat halyard, and mainsheet.
Pull the halyards all the way through the holes in the bow. Make sure
the benches and runway are clear, as you will be walking from the bow
towards the stern of the boat as you lower the mast.

Next, lower the mast. Stand on the bow with a helper. Lift the mast
straight up four inches, using the handle on the front of the mast,
and then bend it backwards, lowering it towards the stern of the boat.
As the mast lowers, walk back towards the stern to gain a mechanical
advantage as it comes down. Carefully lower the mast into the crutch.

Finally, clean things up. Take up the slack in the peak and throat
halyards and coil the lines. Make sure there are no lines in the
water, especially the forestay.

== Checklists ==

It's a good idea to use a checklist before leaving to ensure that nothing is forgotten.

=== Stuff to Take ===

Before leaving, make sure you have everything you need for the trip.
It's often 20°F cooler on the water in the harbor than in
Cambridge, so be sure to dress warmly!

Here is a partial checklist.
* nautical charts & hand-bearing compass
* engine
* fuel
** gas line and 3.2 gallon gas tank (filled).
** four stroke engine oil (1 quart)
** fuel conditioner (1 quart)
* soundmaking devices
** whistle
** air horn
* life jacket (minimum one per person)
* food and water (suggestion: bring a cooler with ice)
* sunscreen
* camera
* VHF radio (perform radio check before departure, e.g. channel 27; agree on working channel such as 72 with all skippers)
* Cell phone with the Pavilion's phone number
* pliers (2) (preferably needle nose pliers and channel locks for the turnbuckle.)
* screwdrivers
** philips head (2)
** flathead (1)
* cold and water resistant clothing
* extra line. (Sets of dock lines are stored in the harbor trip locker.)
** stern line (20 ft. gauge ??)
** spring lines (2) - 20 ft. gauge??,
** fender lines (2) - 3 ft each (gauge??)
**spare lines (short and long).
* spare parts for the Lynx
** forestay cotter pin (2)
** forestay cotter ring (4)
** forestay turnbuckle
** forestay turnbuckle cotter rings (or ring pins) x 3
** traveller shackle (1), cotter ring (3) and cotter pin (2)
** peak shackles (2), cotter pins, cotter rings and eyestrap bolts.
* pills for seasickness
* binoculars
* fenders (2) (in addition to the ball fender attached in the boat)
* flares (should already be in the front compartment.)
* anchor (should already be in the front compartment.)
* paddle (should already be under one of the benches.)
* first aid kit
* pump
* bailer
* throwable life preserver
* flashlight
* battery for lights - make sure it is installed and tested - even for day trips - lights are good for a sudden storm.
* boat hook (currently in bay one)

=== Stuff to Do ===
* The week before
** Email/coordinate with the dock master to make sure the trip is okay. Sometimes there are special events where they need all the Lynxes. Other times there is a race, and they will want us to leave early to avoid tying up the dock.
** Create the trip on the MITNA web site. Copy and old trip and change the dates and organizers.
** Email bluewater@mit.edu to let people know about the trip. Once you send mail to bluewater, it will fill up in a few hours.
* The night before.
** Confirm the boat has a reefing hook.
** Check that the yoke is in good shape.
** Pump bilge.
** Install engine.
** Unstep mast.
** Check battery. Confirm it's charged, even for day trips, in case of a storm.
** Tighten screws on the mast and the reefing clips.
* The morning of the trip
** Check the weather and tides.
** Send a float plan to dockmaster@mit.edu and dockstaff@mit.edu that includes
*** Full list of attendees, including card numbers, and cell phone numbers.
*** Weather forcast.
*** Leaving and return times.
*** Where we are going and what route we plan to take.
*** Boat sail numbers.
** Remind everyone to use restrooms.
** Sunscreen.

* Return
** Wash out the mast knuckle joint with fresh water. Once it dries, spray graphite on it. Otherwise the masts become very difficult to step.

== Getting to the Harbor ==

[[Image:CharlesRiver.jpg|frame|The path to Boston Harbor on NOAA chart 13272, Boston Inner Harbor, showing 1.) the old lock, 2.) the MBTA railroad bridge, and 3.) the current lock.]]
[[Image:RailroadBridge.jpg|frame|The MBTA Amtrak Bridge when open. The Lynx with stepped mast can usually fit under this bridge, but not always.]]

[[Image:Locks.jpg|frame|The lock filled with boats, including a Lynx 16.]]

Challenges on the drive to the harbor include recreational sail boats, duck
boats, and tight maneuvering along the way. The chart on the right
shows the main obstacles: the old locks, the railroad bridge, and the operating locks.

First drive under the Longfellow Bridge. Stay towards the center of
one of the channels underneath the bridge; avoid the pilings. Don't
blindside boats on the other side of the bridge (especially duck
boats). Make sure you can see oncoming boats before you drive under
the bridge.

Next head towards the right side of the Science Museum towards the old
lock and the Craigie Drawbridge. (Mark #1 on
the chart to the right.) The channel in the old lock is somewhat
narrow. Don't blindside boats when entering the channel. Duckboats
often come down the channel at the same time as your boat. Always
pass port to port, and avoid the wall and other boats.

If you pass a duckboat, the driver may lead the passengers in yelling "Quack!" at you. The correct response, of course, is "Meow!"

Once you pass the old lock, the next hazard is the MBTA railroad
bridge. (Mark #2 on the chart, and pictured open on the right. This bridge has very little
clearance. Depending on the river level, the Lynx can often fit under
the bridge with the mast stepped, but not always. The highest point
on the Lynx after it is stepped is the base of the mast on the bow.
Approach the bridge with the throttle at the lowest setting. Have the
crew move towards the bow so it sits lower in the water. About 15
feet away from the bridge, set the engine to neutral, and go into
reverse if necessary to very slowly approach the bridge. If the boat
fits, the crew in the bow can draw the boat under the bridge hand over
hand. If not, back off and give the signal for the bridge to be
opened. The horn signal is one long blast and one short blast.
However often the MBTA people do not pay attention to the horn, and
you have to call them with a cell phone at the number posted.

Finally, drive underneath the Zakim Bridge towards the locks. Once
about 100 feet away from the lock, sound two long and two short blasts
on the horn or whistle, to signal that you want to enter the locks, or
radio channel 16. Idle the motor and wait for the green light before
moving forward. This part can be tricky as there is not a lot of
space to maneuver and sometimes there are other boats waiting too.

Before going into the lock, make sure you have a bowline, a stern
line, and fenders ready to go on one side of the boat. Once the light
turns green, slowly drive into the lock towards the far end. Pull up
about 3/4 of the way towards the far end of the lock, and put the
engine in neutral. Have your crew hold onto the lines running between
the cleats on the dock and the lines hanging down from above.
If you actually wrap your docklines around a cleat, you may be told off
by the lock operator! Once the door opens on the other side, release
the lines and drive out of the lock.

== Raising the Mast ==

To raise the mast, first make sure all the halyards and mainsheet are
loose, and the forestay is clear. Two people should walk along the
benches towards the bow, slowly raising the mast. A third person
makes sure that the lines are not tangled, especially with the engine. The third person also must raise the boom while the mast is lifted.
Once the mast is vertical, it slides down about four inches into a
slot.

Next, attach the forestay. First make sure the forestay is centered
on the front of the mast, and swing it around if not. With one person
holding up the boom, and a second person pushing forward on the mast,
attach the forestay pin through the turnbuckle. If it is too tight,
then loosen the turnbuckle. Once forestay is installed, put on the
ringding and tighten the turnbuckle. Have someone lift up the boom,
and tighten it with a screwdriver and wrench until the forestay is
fairly tight (with the boom up). When the boom drops back down, it
will be quite tight. Make sure to put the ringdings back in the
turnbuckle once it is adjusted.

Finally, raise the sail and go sailing.

== Navigating in the Harbor ==

The boat's draft is 4 feet 6 inches with the centerboard down (only 14 inches with centerboard up).
Stay in places with more than 5 feet of depth in the chart.
Corollary: you should know where you are in the chart at all times.
Abide by the rules of the road. Avoid the huge tankers and boats with
limited maneuverability. When giving way, make a decisive course
change so the other boat knows that you've seen them. The waves are
larger in the harbor, so turn into the larger wakes. Know how to use
the chart to navigate in the harbor and stay in the channel.

This website is a useful reference for navigating in the harbor:
http://home.comcast.net/~bostondavid/bosnav.html. It has pictures of the
different types of buoys and advice on navigation and tides.

Information on changes or temporary issues of navigation significance are in the Coast Guard's [http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=lnmDistrict&region=1 Notices to Mariners].



== Docking at Spectacle Island ==

When docking at an island, head to wind, turn on the engine, and then
lower the sail. Make sure the lines and fenders are ready to go before motoring into the dock.
Spectacle Island has a public dock. The fee is $20 if you stay over 20 minutes, and MITNA will generally reimburse this fee.

You can call the Spectacle Island Marina with a cell phone (508-564-1078) or VHF channel 9. Give your
boat name and size and ask for a dock. They will tell you which aisle
to go down, and which side the lines need to be on. But usually if you see a spot open you can just take it, and the staff will
tell you if they would like you to move elsewhere.
On busy days, call in advance to ensure a spot.

Other destinations: Georges Island, Thompson Island, Snake Island, Lovells Island, Deer Island (not an island), ...

== Returning Home ==

When returning back to the Pavilion, lower the mast by the Coast Guard
station in Boston Harbor. Return back through the locks, under the
railroad bridge, through the old channel and back to the pavilion.

If you are using the inboard fuel tank of the motor, Wally recommends clearing the remaining fuel in the engine. This practice makes the engine easier to start for the next trip. After you are back at MIT, start the engine as usual, close the fuel valve, and run the engine until it stops. It typically runs for about five minutes until the fuel is gone.

Raise the mast, put the engine away, unload the boat, and return all equipment.

== Contact and Emergency Info ==
* MIT Sailing Pavillion phone: 617-253-4884, or VHF Channel 73 call "Beaver Lodge"
* Sea Tow call 1-800-4SEATOW (1-800-473-2869) or hail "Sea Tow" on channel 16
* Sea Tow automated radio check: channel 27 in Winthrop, channel 26 in Gloucester
* Boston Police Department: 617-343-4200
* Cambridge Police Department: 617-349-3300

=== Emergency Coast Guard Contact Information ===
Emergency VHF Radio Call Procedure
# Make sure radio is on
# Select channel 16
# Press & hold the transmit button
# Clearly say: "MAYDAY MAYDAY MAYDAY. This is""
# Repeat vessel name 3 times: "MIT Lynx #2." (Lynx number is on the sail)
# Describe the boat: "Single-masted, gaff-rigged, 16 ft. sailboat. White sail with red numbers." (describe as appropriate)
# Give GPS coordinates if you have a GPS phone or other device. Otherwise, if you have a compass, give several bearings to land objects or navigation buoys. Otherwise, give the best possible qualitative description of your location.
# State nature of emergency
# State the help requested
# Give number of people on board and describe any injuries
# Give the seaworthiness of the boat
# Say "Over"
# Release transmit button
# Wait for 10 seconds - if NO response repeat call.

You can also contact the Coast Guard by telephone
* Dial 911 and ask to be connected to Boston Coast Guard Emergency Center
* Dial Boston Coast Guard Emergency directly: (617) 223-8555. (Telephone number retrieved from http://uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg534/RCC_numbers.asp, 2011.05.22)

For more details, see [http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/nsd/coastpilot_w.php?book=1 Coastal Pilot, Chapter 1].

== Contributors ==

This document was created by Stefanie Tellex, based on extensive
teaching by Keith Winstein and Wally Corwin. Additional information provided by Conan Hom.

Radio Channels in Boston Harbor

2015-09-24T19:04:01Z

Dstrubbe:

* '''Boston Waterboat Marina''' - VHF 12 or call 617.523.1027

* '''Boston Harbor Sailing Club Launch''' (Rowes Wharf) - Call launch on VHF 10 or 1 blast of an air horn.

* '''Charles River Dam''' - Hail on VHF 16 or call 617-727-0488 or 2 long and 2 short blasts on your horn

* '''Craigie Draw Bridge''' (Science Museum Bridge) - Call 617-523-1794 or VHF 16 for an opening (or signal 1 long and 1 short blast). Note: bridge is closed 06:45 - 09:30 and 15:15 - 18:30.

* '''Amelia Earhart Dam''' (Mystic River) hail on VHF 16 or call 617-666-3337.

* '''McArdle Bridge''' (Chelsea River) - VHF 13 or call 617-884-9543.

* '''Chelsea Street Bridge''' (further up Chelsea River) - VHF 13 or call 617-567-9497 for an opening.

* '''Boston Harbor Shipyard & Marina''' - VHF 9 617-561-1400

* '''Boston Harbormaster''' - (617-343-4721) or VHF 9 or 16

* '''Spectacle Island Marina''' - VHF 9

* '''Automatic Radio Check''' - VHF 27 (Winthrop), VHF 25 (Gloucester) from [http://www.seatow.com/tools-and-education/automated-radio-check Sea Tow]

2015-09-23T03:05:59Z

Dstrubbe:

Occasionally, overnight harbor trips with the [[Lynx 16]] catboats are run to camp on one of the Boston Harbor Islands. To run such a trip requires a higher level of preparation and skill than an ordinary [[Lynx harbor trips | harbor trip]]. Be sure you have one or more experienced sailors as crew.

== Where to Camp ==

There are four islands where camping is allowed: Lovells Island, Peddocks Island, Grape Island, and Bumkin Island. The first two are significantly closer than the other two (though still a quite a bit longer sail than to Spectacle Island), which are all the way down in Quincy Bay. During the official season (Memorial Day to Labor Day), campsites must be reserved through the Reserve America online system. It can be hard to find an opening as people reserve long in advance. However, it appears that there are a large fraction of no-shows that do not cancel, so you can try just turning up and asking the ranger for a spot, which is likely to be successful according to anecdote. During the off-season, such as May and September, you can obtain a camping permit by contacting the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation. Lovells Island is undeveloped, and has small campsites on the north end of the island, as well as a large group campsite on the south end. Peddocks Island has a visitors center with bathrooms, a church, and many military buildings, as well as a large colony of squatters in ramshackle off-grid houses. There are tent campsites as well as yurts available. There is some ferry service to each of the islands, which may be useful if some people need to arrive or leave early or late. Check the schedule carefully. Lovells Island is very close to Georges Island which has much more ferry service.

== Securing the Boat ==

Lovells Island has a dock where you can land. It is designed for ferries, not for small boats such as ours. Beware of the large tires hung along it as fenders: they are just the right height to break the wooden rubrail along the Lynx's gunwale when the boat is jostled by a big wake from a ferry going by in the channel between Lovells Island Georges Island. You can briefly stay at the dock to drop off or pick up people and gear. Then you need to anchor the boat in the area off the beach to the northwest. Be careful of the large rocks in the middle of the beach, which are submerged at high tide but visible at low tide. Consider carefully the tide at the time you anchor, as well as the current and likely future wind direction. Setting a stern anchor is a good idea. There may be a small rowing dinghy available to use to get to the dock after anchoring. It is probably better if possible not to use the dock at all, and just come up to the beach with the boats to unload and reload, as the beach is nice and sandy, with a shallow slope. In this case, you can try to anchor so close to the beach that you can just walk (or swim) out to the boat. Be careful to put the centerboard up before or as soon as it touches the bottom when you are approaching to anchor, and be especially careful not to let the outboard motor's propeller hit the bottom. Check repeatedly on the boat during your time on the island, especially in the first hour, or when there is a change in wind direction or increase in strength, to be sure the anchor is not dragging. Check at least once in the night, bringing a bright light to shine at the boat to see the situation. Bring notes on the tides and currents for reference in anchoring, as well as for piloting during your sail out and back. Boston Light is the closest tide height station. There are also [http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/currents15/tab2ac2.html#8 current stations] in the Lovells Island Narrows.

== Preparation ==

You will need to bring proper anchors. The usual ones kept in the boats are inadequate for any serious anchoring, although they can be useful as a backup stern anchor. Bring the largest ones you can find at the pavilion, in consultation with dock staff, along with a rode of a reasonable length. Think carefully about where to stow heavy gear in terms of the resulting hull trim: putting the anchor at the stern is a good idea so you don't put the bow too low, which is a problem with waves in the harbor. The water you bring with you is also significant for hull trim. Bring extra fenders for use on docks. Bail the boat as much as possible beforehand, from the cockpit as well as the internal space under the cockpit, which will help the boat's performance when heavily laden with gear, and help avoid getting your gear wet. Bring a hand pump, a sponge, and a plastic bailer as used on Techs. Have garbage bags to put your gear (e.g. food, backpacks) in, so it does not get wet from water in the cockpit, as well as for your trash. Be sure you have batteries installed and the lights are working -- it is unwise to plan to sail at night in the harbor but it could be needed if something goes wrong! Needed camping gear can be rented from the [www.mit.edu/~mitoc MIT Outing Club]. Bringing extra navigational equipment such as a compass and a GPS is a good idea. Check the marine forecast periodically, particularly the next morning, by listening to the local WX channel on your VHF radio or checking it on a smartphone (3G signal should be fine through the harbor). Bring a spare battery for your phone or turn it off for a while if necessary, to be sure you still have battery later. Check the condition of your boat carefully before leaving, in particular that you will be able to reef properly if required.

== Food and Water ==

There is no running water on Lovells island. Bring at least 1 gallon of water per person. There are two barbecue grills available at the group campsite, as well as a couple on the beach, at the picnic spot on the hill, and some (but not all) of the small campsites. Bring grill implements (cleaning brush, spatula, tongs), charcoal, a lighter or matches, and lighter fluid or a firestarter chimney and newspaper. Bring a cooler with ice to keep your food cold until dinner. You could freeze meat solid to be sure it stays cold. For a second day on the island, you should probably rely on non-perishable items. Camping stoves are good for breakfast, for boiling water for coffee, oatmeal, etc. Little containers of milk or cream that don't need refrigeration are convenient for coffee or tea.

== Fires ==

Fires are allowed below the high tide line. You may not bring your own firewood. You are actually expected to gather your own wood, which of course should be dead wood that has fallen. You may not cut anything down! A hatchet could be convenient to cut up wood you find there.

== Facilities ==

There is a small pavilion near the ferry dock. There is a yurt that a ranger lives in during the summer. There are two composting toilets: one at the group campsite, and one near the ranger's yurt.

== Island Activities ==

The beach where you anchor, on the northwest side of the dock, is good for swimming, nice and sandy. There is also a designated swimming beach on the east (ocean) side of the island, which has a nice view for sunrise out to sea, with the two lighthouses in view. There are sometimes ranger-led tours of the island in the summer. It is interesting to walk around, which you can definitely spend a couple of hours doing. There is a map with info for a self-guided tour [https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=zPghRP7N5TLw.kGrYrbceXaTM online].

== Past Camping Trips ==

* September 2015, Lovells Island (David Strubbe, Bill Herrington)
* August 2014, Lovells Island (David Strubbe)

== Links ==

* http://www.bostonharborislands.org/#!camping-faqs/cqju
* http://www.bostonharborislands.org/#!lovells-island/c20zp
* http://www.nps.gov/boha/learn/historyculture/facts-love.htm

Lynx 16

2015-09-23T03:03:46Z

Dstrubbe:

[[Image:Lynx10b.jpg|frame|The Lynx 16 under way.]]

The MIT Sailing Pavilion has a new fleet of six 16-foot gaff-rigged boats built
by [http://areyspondboatyard.com/apby-built-boats/lynx-16-open-cockpit Arey's Pond Boat Yard].
The Lynx is a traditional Cape Cod catboat, with one mast at the front of the boat and one gaff rigged sail, meaning the sail is four-sided.
The style is traditional for workboats off Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Other catboats at MIT include the Tech Dinghy and the Laser, but the Lynx is the only one with a gaff rig.
It is a great party boat because
it holds six to eight people, is relatively stable, and has a distinctive style. It is used for the monthly moonlight sailing nights. This document
describes how to rig and sail the Lynx. Other pages explain about [[Lynx harbor trips | trips to Boston Harbor]] and [[Lynx overnight trips | overnight trips]].

Because of its distinctive rig, the Lynx is a very recognizable boat.
As such, sailors should consider themselves ambassadors for MIT and
practice good seamanship, following the rules for right-of-way with
sailboats, motor boats, and human-powered vessels.

The aim of this page is to give detailed information on every aspect of the Lynx. [[Lynx_16_Cheat_Sheet]] is a one-page summary with just the essentials. Track repair, maintenance, and purchase items at [[Lynx_maintenance]].

When sailing in the Charles River Basin, all the Pavilion rules apply
in terms of areas allowed to sail and recall signals. The Lynx's
draft is shallow: 4'6" feet with the centerboard down, and 14" with
the centerboard up, but it's still bad idea to run aground in Boston!

It's a good idea to keep some general guidelines in mind when sailing
the Lynx. First, keep the lanes clear. Stow all backpacks and gear
under the bench, so that crew can quickly move from the back to the front
of the boat. Second, make sure the mainsheet and halyards are always
running free; never tie them to themselves or stow them in a way that
cannot be quickly released. (But never untie the stopper knots in these lines!)
Be aware that the mainsheet sometimes gets caught on the traveler when
tacking or gybing.

== Rigging the Boat ==

The Lynx is a gaff-rigged boat, unlike MIT's other boats. A
gaff-rigged boat has a second spar called the gaff, which lies
parallel to the boom when the sail is down, and rises at an angle
above the mast when the sail is up. This
rig increases the size of the sail area the mast and boom can carry,
with less heeling than a triangular sail, although it cannot sail as
close to the wind.

To prepare the Lynx for sailing, first take off the sail cover, roll
it up, and stow it under a bench. Take off the tiller-tamers, the
lines holding the tiller stationary. Take out the boom crutch and
stow it under the benches. Lower the centerboard all the way.

Make sure the mainsheet is not cleated or fouled. But never take the
stopper knots off the end of the mainsheet! These are there to
prevent the mainsheet from flying out of the boat, and to prevent the
mainsail from gybing around the front of the boat.

To raise the sail, first note that the Lynx has not one, but two
halyards, one to raise each end of the gaff. The end of the gaff
closest to the mast is called the ''throat''; the end farthest from
the mast is called the ''peak''. The corresponding halyards are
called the throat halyard and the peak halyard. To raise the
mainsail, pull both halyards up at about the same rate. Pull the
throat halyard tight as high as it will go. Then raise the peak
halyard until the sail is smooth. If the peak is too loose, there
will be horizontal wrinkles in the sail; too tight, and the sail will
have vertical wrinkles. Adjust it so that there is just a hint of a
vertical wrinkle, as the lines will stretch once underway. Coil the
halyards, laying the coils in opposite directions. Do not finish by tying the halyard to itself, as
that might make it difficult to quickly lower the sail in an emergency. Instead, reach
through the coil and pick up the line where it comes off the cam
cleat, pull the loop back through the coil, and loop it over the horn
cleat. Then if the halyard needs to be lowered in a hurry, it can be
lifted off the cleat, dropped on the deck, and it is ready to go.

Make sure the lanes are clear in the boat: the fender should be wedged
under the seat, and backpacks should be pushed under the benches. Then
the crew can quickly reach the front of the boat in order to lower the
sails or open the dry storage space.

== Casting Off ==

When leaving the dock, pull the sail in to power up the boat and push
the tiller towards the dock. It will probably be necessary to give
the boat a large push to get it onto the correct tack. Make sure the
centerboard is all the way down to make it turn as quickly as
possible. Once the boat is away from the dock, stow the fender under
the bench. Wedge it in place so it will not move while under way.

When casting off from a mooring, make sure the mooring is attached to
the bow cleat closest to the wall. Switch cleats if necessary. Pull
the sail all the way in and push the tiller towards the wall. The
boat will power up and tack away from the wall. Once the boat is on
the correct tack so that it is heading away from the wall, one person
should release the boat from the mooring and walk back along the wall
side of the boat. This action will help the boat turn on the correct
tack to sail away from the wall. The more experienced person should
do this job (the skipper if necessary); anyone can push the tiller
towards the wall, while the person handling the mooring line can make
or break the launch.

Do not drop the mooring line until the boat is powered up and sailing
away from the wall. If necessary, more people can help hold the line
and get it back on the cleat for another try.

== Tacking ==

When tacking in the Lynx, pull in the sail and start to turn the boat.
The boat does not head upwind well, so do not pull in the sail too
far. Make sure the centerboard is all the way down. Do not push the
tiller all the way over, or the boat will slow down and may get stuck
in irons. Instead, push it about three quarters of the way over so
that the boat makes a gradual turn. (Of course, turning too slowly
may also result in being stuck in irons.)

If you do get stuck in irons,
leave the mainsheet loose and wait for the boat to start moving backwards,
then push the tiller over to the side you want to the bow to point. Once
the boat has turned out of irons, trim in the mainsheet to start moving forwards again.

== Gybing ==

To gybe, get on a broad reach. Alert the crew to prepare to gybe, and
pull the sail in about half way. Begin the turn; as the boat turns,
the crew should continue pulling in the sail. Warn the crew as the
sail comes around. Once the sail moves, let it back out and trim it
properly for the new course. If the sail is pulled in too soon before
the turn, or not let out quickly enough after the turn, the boat will
develop strong weather helm and try to turn into the wind. Because
the sail is so big, it is dangerous to do an uncontrolled gybe.
Always pull in the sail and let it back out as the boat turns.

When heading downwind, never let the sail out past the stopper knots
on the mainsheet. Never remove the stopper knots from the sheet.

== Centerboard ==

The Lynx is more pleasant to sail if the centerboard is balanced with
the sail. The boat can be steered with the centerboard: when it is
all the way down, it will have weather helm and turn towards the wind.
All the way up and it will have lee helm, and turn downwind. (This
works best if all the weight is towards the back of the boat.) Adjust
the centerboard so it has a slight weather helm for the current point
of sail. This adjustment will reduce the pull on the tiller and
reduce drag in the water caused by the centerboard.

Sometimes the centerboard gets stuck. Often it can be eased up and
back down or dropped quickly to get it unstuck. Sometimes it helps to
tack to take the pressure off the board.

== Reefing ==

If the wind is 12-15 knots, use the first reef. If it's 18 knots or
higher, use the second. Reefing should be done on the dock rather
than out in the river, although when out in the harbor it may be
necessary to do it at sea. There are reefing clips at two locations
at the end of the boom, and a reefing hook where the boom meets the
mast. The sail has rings (reefing tacks and reefing clews) at the
corresponding locations on the sail.

To reef the sail, lower both halyards. Have someone stand on the bow
and lift up the lowest white ring as far up the mast as it will go. Someone
else can hold up the end of the boom, to help the person putting in the reef.
To put in the reef, first hook the clips into the reefing clew (at the end of the boom).
The two clips go into the corresponding rings on each side of the
sail. Make sure the strap connecting the two clips is not twisted, as
every millimeter is necessary to put in the reef. Put in the first
clip first and then stretch the sail and the clips until the second
one is in. Once both clips are in, attach the reefing hook to the
reefing tack where the boom and the mast meet. Make sure that
corresponding reef points are used: do not try to use the second reef
on the tack and the first reef on the clew.

== Landing ==

Make sure the centerboard is fully down so the boat will turn sharply.
Let the sail out to slow the boat down, and make a sharp turn about a
boat-length away from the dock. Sharp turns slow the boat down. Have
a crew member ready with the bow line to step out of the boat, pass the
bow line through one of the loops on the edge of the dock and then
bring the line back to the boat and cleat the line on the bow cleat nearest
the dock. Don't forget to make sure that the bow line is passing through
the chock.

== Putting Away the Boat ==

To put away the boat, get out the boom crutch and install it in the
stern. Take out any reefs that have been put in.
Lower both halyards; the red peak halyard will have to be
lowered faster than the throat halyard. The white ''lazy jack'' lines
will cradle the sail, causing it to fall along the boom. When the
sail and boom are all the way down, rest the boom in the crutch. Then
put the sail cover on the sail, starting from the end of the boom.
Put the sail cover around the front of the mast but inside the two
halyard lines. Tighten and coil the mainsheet and rest it on top of
the tiller. Do not tie the mainsheet to itself - just coil it and drape it on
the tiller. Put the tiller tamers on the tiller. Raise the
centerboard.

== Panic Moves ==

The Lynx is self-bailing, with two drainage holes near the
centerboard. However, if significant water gets in the boat, pumps may be
located in the dry storage area in the bow. This area also has an
anchor and flares for emergencies. The boat has running lights; the
switch is located in the stern next to the tiller (but only works if you brought the battery).

Unexpected events happen while sailing. If the wind picks up suddenly
and the boat is overpowered, head to wind, and let the sail out. Then
sail back to the dock and reef. If it's really crazy, lower the peak
halyard all the way to reduce the sail area ("scantelizing the peak"). See [http://www.beetlecat.com/store/Scripts/openExtra.asp?extra=79 example photo] from Beetle Cat, a similar boat.

What if the forestay breaks? Head downwind to take pressure off the
stay, and then lower the sail.

What about if the mainsheet gets lost? Try to retrieve it by reaching
along the boom. If the boat is heading downwind, lower the
centerboard all the way and turn the tiller all the way to one side to
turn the boat into the wind. This action will bring the boom back
over the boat. (Avoid this problem in the first place by never
untying the stopper knots in the mainsheet!)

What if the boat is stuck in irons close to the wall? Warn the crew
to fend off. Have them get out the paddle and put out the
fender. Land facing upwind. Try to cast off by pulling in the sail and
pushing the boat onto the correct tack with the oar.

== Outline for the Class ==

This is the outline used for teaching the Lynx class.

* Parts of the boat.
* Boat taxonomy.
* Rigging/hoisting.
* Tacking and jibing.
* Centerboard and balance.
* Mooring.
* Reefing.
* Panic moves.
* Rules of the road.

Things to remember:
* Never do an uncontrolled jibe. Make a big turn and tack instead if you are not certain you can jibe in a controlled manner.
* Never untie the stopper knot at the end of the mainsheet.
* Always use the fender when docking.
* Always use the chock on the dock line or the mooring line.
* Never cleat off the halyard lines so you can quickly drop the sail if necessary.

== Heavy-weather Lynx sailing ==

The boat will heel and give a lot of weather helm. You can try raising the centerboard somewhat to counteract this. Be ready to counteract rounding up with the tiller when you get a strong gust, and watch out to windward to be sure you do not hit anything if you do round up. The rudder will come mostly of the water if you heel hard, making you unable to stop rounding up. The solution is to counteract hard and immediately with the tiller, and also to ease the sheet, to keep the boat from heeling to a "point of no return" when you will end up in irons.

You can scantelize the peak if you need to reduce sail area quickly, or take one or two reefs if you have more time, to be more efficient and permanent. Be sure you are able to do this on the water in case that is necessary. You can of course "spill wind" by not sheeting in as much as you usually would, if you are overpowered. When sailing downwind with a strong wind, the bow will be pushed down hard, reducing the rudder area in the water and making it harder to steer, and also making you more likely to take waves over the bow (if in the harbor). Counteract this by moving weight of people (and heavy gear, if aboard) aft.

It is all the more important to control your jibes in strong winds. You can always do a "chicken jibe" (tack) if in doubt. The safest way to jibe in strong winds (if necessary) is to turn past running, to sailing by the lee briefly, before bringing the mainsail over quickly. This will make the boat be on a reach rather than a run afterward, and mean that the mainsail can be luffing slightly after the maneuver, reducing the force that it will apply on the mast, and thus both the risk of damage and the risk of excessive heeling. (This kind of jibe is good for other dinghies too, incidentally.)

The wind will slow you down very quickly if you point into irons. Therefore it can be easier to get stuck in irons, particularly if you attempt to tack when moving slowly. Be sure to have good speed on a close-hauled course before tacking.