Difference between revisions of "Fix traveller"
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(See some [[2007 Traveler Pictures|pictures]] of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.) | (See some [[2007 Traveler Pictures|pictures]] of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.) | ||
| − | + | May 23, 2007 -- I added prices to parts list below - Rig-rite said MIT did not have an account - however we could apply and may get a discount in the 5% to 20% range. After rethinking the matter my gut is to replace the whole shebang which means wrestling/drilling the bolts of the top of the hatch. Un-discounted price is (inc shipping)$1,443 (+ cost of cleats) -- if we just replaced control cars @ ends the cost would be $358 (+cleats) - however we would have a traveler block that still does not ride well and a track that looks like hell. Opinions??? | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | May 17, 2008. | |
| − | + | On May 10 we visited Nevermore and we made a drawing of the cross section of the traveler track and then I did some better research – the situation is: | |
| − | + | Our traveler is a 3-1 system with a Nicro-Fico X track and Ronstan-Australia components. Harken parts are incompatible. If we want Harken, the entire unit will have to be replaced, which means removing the existing track and replacing it with a Harken track. This is a major piece of work – requiring bolts to be drilled out, hatch dismantled, and then re-bolting. Consensus is that this is not worth the effort. | |
| − | + | The screws holding the traveler car are fused as are the bolts in the tracks that serve as stops for the traveler block (on wiki see pic 110 – the screws above the 3 and 5 on the ruler are fused. See pic 140 – the “stop bolt” above the 48 on the ruler is fused.) | |
| − | + | I contacted Ronstan and they referred me to Rig-rite of RI or Holland Marine of Canada. On Rig-rite’s web site (http://www.rigrite.com/) and found out that the parts are; | |
| − | + | a) 1 Traveler Track – P# NF 610 $349 | |
| − | + | b) 2 Travel Control Ends – P# NF 6612 (L & R) (with cam cleats) - 6613(w/O cam cleat) $179 ea | |
| + | |||
| + | c) 2 Rubber stops w/ pins – P# NF 611N & P - $42 ea | ||
| − | + | d) 1 4-wheel Traveler Car w/ Control blocks – P# NF 588 - $599 | |
| − | + | Rig-rite has a no contact telephone/e-mail system and I had to fax an inquiry as to parts availability and price – will advise prices when I receive reply. | |
| − | + | Major problems revolve around 2 (b) and 2 (d). | |
| − | + | 2 (b) will be replaced by Travel Control Ends w/o cam cleats – P# NF 6613 L & R - the plan is to cleat the unit on the hatch top – near the existing horn cleats – next to the winches – this will be a moderately difficult job as parts of the interior ceiling have to be removed to attach the thru bolts. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | 2 (d) – presents the most problems. The unit does not roll easily on the tracks and the 2 side control blocks (w/ beckets) are in poor shape – however the unit is trapped by the fused screws/bolts. I spoke w/ the owner of a machine shop and he said it is likely that they only way we can get this unit off and repaired is to drill out the screws/bolts – his response follows: | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | “Sounds like fun --- and, sounds like drilling out might be the easiest solution. Assuming that we’re talking about joints that are secured by a combination of nuts & bolts, drilling out should be readily accomplished by: | |
| − | + | 1) use hardened punch to put a point spot on the end of the nut | |
| − | + | 2) use a carbide drill to remove the body of the bolt ‘til the nut comes free | |
| − | + | 3) Knock the remainder of the bolt out and discard | |
| − | + | 4) Replace with new SS fasteners | |
| + | If the joint is one where the bolt is threaded into a stainless body that must be saved, the drill size should be that of the minor diameter of the bolt --- once the bolt is drilled out, the hole can be re-tapped, using a tap, tap wrench and some tapping oil. | ||
| + | Chances are, if you continue to torque the nuts, you’ll snap the bolts anyhow and perhaps have an angled surface to try to start the drill --- a little tougher.” | ||
| + | If we have anybody w/ the tools and expertise to do this it might be worth the effort | ||
| + | |||
| + | Note; To clean up this page completed or irrelevant verbiage about the traveler was deleted - the 3 issues below were not addressed above. | ||
| + | |||
| + | There are several problems with the traveler. | ||
| + | |||
| + | * The line is severely frayed and needs to be replaced. | ||
| + | ** 3/28; will replace during spring re-float. I assume the lines will be part of the general rope purchase for the spring re-float. | ||
| + | ** 3/29; TODO: line lengths, diameters, and material must be specified; some lines need eye-splices, right? (And ThomS notes that the traveller isn't mentioned in the [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|T37 Owner's Instructions]], section IV "Rigging List", darn!) | ||
| + | |||
| + | * The [[padeye|padeyes]] at either end of the traveller have sharp edges and they are abrading the line. They should be replaced. | ||
| + | ** 3/28 - KS to purchase and will replace | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | [[Category:Maintenance Tasks]] | ||
Latest revision as of 17:08, 23 May 2008
(See some pictures of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.)
May 23, 2007 -- I added prices to parts list below - Rig-rite said MIT did not have an account - however we could apply and may get a discount in the 5% to 20% range. After rethinking the matter my gut is to replace the whole shebang which means wrestling/drilling the bolts of the top of the hatch. Un-discounted price is (inc shipping)$1,443 (+ cost of cleats) -- if we just replaced control cars @ ends the cost would be $358 (+cleats) - however we would have a traveler block that still does not ride well and a track that looks like hell. Opinions???
May 17, 2008.
On May 10 we visited Nevermore and we made a drawing of the cross section of the traveler track and then I did some better research – the situation is:
Our traveler is a 3-1 system with a Nicro-Fico X track and Ronstan-Australia components. Harken parts are incompatible. If we want Harken, the entire unit will have to be replaced, which means removing the existing track and replacing it with a Harken track. This is a major piece of work – requiring bolts to be drilled out, hatch dismantled, and then re-bolting. Consensus is that this is not worth the effort.
The screws holding the traveler car are fused as are the bolts in the tracks that serve as stops for the traveler block (on wiki see pic 110 – the screws above the 3 and 5 on the ruler are fused. See pic 140 – the “stop bolt” above the 48 on the ruler is fused.)
I contacted Ronstan and they referred me to Rig-rite of RI or Holland Marine of Canada. On Rig-rite’s web site (http://www.rigrite.com/) and found out that the parts are;
a) 1 Traveler Track – P# NF 610 $349
b) 2 Travel Control Ends – P# NF 6612 (L & R) (with cam cleats) - 6613(w/O cam cleat) $179 ea
c) 2 Rubber stops w/ pins – P# NF 611N & P - $42 ea
d) 1 4-wheel Traveler Car w/ Control blocks – P# NF 588 - $599
Rig-rite has a no contact telephone/e-mail system and I had to fax an inquiry as to parts availability and price – will advise prices when I receive reply.
Major problems revolve around 2 (b) and 2 (d).
2 (b) will be replaced by Travel Control Ends w/o cam cleats – P# NF 6613 L & R - the plan is to cleat the unit on the hatch top – near the existing horn cleats – next to the winches – this will be a moderately difficult job as parts of the interior ceiling have to be removed to attach the thru bolts.
2 (d) – presents the most problems. The unit does not roll easily on the tracks and the 2 side control blocks (w/ beckets) are in poor shape – however the unit is trapped by the fused screws/bolts. I spoke w/ the owner of a machine shop and he said it is likely that they only way we can get this unit off and repaired is to drill out the screws/bolts – his response follows:
“Sounds like fun --- and, sounds like drilling out might be the easiest solution. Assuming that we’re talking about joints that are secured by a combination of nuts & bolts, drilling out should be readily accomplished by: 1) use hardened punch to put a point spot on the end of the nut 2) use a carbide drill to remove the body of the bolt ‘til the nut comes free 3) Knock the remainder of the bolt out and discard 4) Replace with new SS fasteners
If the joint is one where the bolt is threaded into a stainless body that must be saved, the drill size should be that of the minor diameter of the bolt --- once the bolt is drilled out, the hole can be re-tapped, using a tap, tap wrench and some tapping oil.
Chances are, if you continue to torque the nuts, you’ll snap the bolts anyhow and perhaps have an angled surface to try to start the drill --- a little tougher.” If we have anybody w/ the tools and expertise to do this it might be worth the effort
Note; To clean up this page completed or irrelevant verbiage about the traveler was deleted - the 3 issues below were not addressed above.
There are several problems with the traveler.
- The line is severely frayed and needs to be replaced.
- 3/28; will replace during spring re-float. I assume the lines will be part of the general rope purchase for the spring re-float.
- 3/29; TODO: line lengths, diameters, and material must be specified; some lines need eye-splices, right? (And ThomS notes that the traveller isn't mentioned in the T37 Owner's Instructions, section IV "Rigging List", darn!)
- The padeyes at either end of the traveller have sharp edges and they are abrading the line. They should be replaced.
- 3/28 - KS to purchase and will replace
